This is probably a dumb question. I am used to a car running so smooth, but the 2000 f4 is carburated and probably more hi performance than most car engines. When my bike is idling and when i take off I can hear it miss a little. Was just wondering if that was normal. I have changed the plugs but that was last year and the bike ran pretty crappy so maybe it has fowled out the plugs a little. I recently fixed a ground so there is so much smoother power and i can tell the ignition isn't starving for power anymore, but maybe i need to change plugs again. Did and oil change and filter already and put k&n air filter in. Only has 9k miles on it so prob doesn't need cct. My friend's F4i runs so smooth I can't even hear a miss at all and I want that nice smooth vrooooooooooooooom, hehe.

 

Mine doesnt miss when I am taking off...or any other time.....I have a 00 F4 its pretty smooth since I cleaned the carbs, and my bike has 16k

 

Well your friend's F4I should idle really smoothly, it is injected. I have a 00 F4 with 15000 miles on it and it never misses. Is your idle extremely low, becuase that can make it sputter a bit. Otherwise check the condition of the plugs, check the carbs and so on. A carb fueled bike should run smoothly, just with the proper adjustment. Maybe you are running a little lean on the gas, so maybe you need to sync the carbs possibly? Just an idea to run with

 

Yeah I'm gonna pull out the plugs and check that. I read about sea foam and wonder if that is a gas treatment that cleans carbs or something you spray directly into the carbs. If I'm going to pull out plugs I might as well clean the carbs. You're talking about just spraying carb cleaner into the top of them right? Someone mentioned somewhere don't spray too much or one can dry something up. I wouldn't mind syncing the carbs, but don't know too much about that. I think there is a tool. Is the tool expensive or easy to use? I will check plugs and clean carbs asap. I did change to a k & n filter and wonder if that might cause it to run leaner. Is there one adjustment or do all carbs need to be adjusted for leaness or richness?

 

Actually I sell auto parts so I can tell you about the better chemicals. Take a look at just a general carb cleaner (CRC, 3M) or any other brand. Now that needs to be sprayed directly into the top of the carbs. Seafoam helps clean out carbon deposits and filth more in the actual engine compartment (like in the top of the cylinder, where ever fuel comes into contact with metal components. Seafoam is a great product and it wouldn't hurt at all to put it in. Check the plugs to look for burt/dirty electrodes, if they are replace with a platinum or iriduim plug (BR9EIX NGK brand). The K&N won't really effect the richness/leaness of the engine, the airflow doesn't make a huge difference, it is all in the carb. To get a carb sync tool, go to motionpro.com (they are the best for motorcycle tools) or just go on eBay and you can usually find something. There is another way to sync carbs using water, some tube and like a plastic conatiner or something but i'm not too sure how that way works. You might even want to completely dissassemble the carbs and and check to see if the internal is clean or not, check the jets, etc.....

 

Thanx smmi0501 for the great info.I think I have some general carb cleaner, so I will look into the plugs tomorrow. I wanted to get better ones anyways so maybe i will order them. I got ripped off with the regular ones as some motorcycle shop last time. Not sure if I want to mess with taking the carbs completely off since I have never done that in so long. The last time i did that was on a 1971 datsun 510 back in 1987ish, hehe. I will post how things go.

 

On a side note, I see a few different carb syncro devices. There is one that looks like you hold it against the top of the intake on each carb one at a time. I wonder if that is good enuff to get them syncronized. I do see a decent 4 gage one for $60. Do carbs go out of sync much? My bike has 9k on it, so not sure how long it takes for them to unsync.

 

Carbs do go out of sync after time, but usually not to a great extent. At about 9000 miles im sure it might be a bit out of sync, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to sync. If you dissassemble the carbs then you almost have to sync, but if you are a little iffiy about dissassembling them, don't do it. The carb sync tool that works one by one is ok, just mark down the extent to which each carb is synced by looking at how high the tool rises (if thats how it works like most, or how high the water rises in the tube if it is that style of a sync tool). The one that does all 4 at the same time is the easiest, but any will work. Let me know how it goes.

 

I pulled out all the plugs and they look great, but I think i left the factory gap with was .032 so I set them to .035 with is correct. The ceramic part was still white so it should be fine unless it is possible to gas foul them, but i think it is normal for them to have gas on them so they are probably perfect. So before I get everything put all back together I will start it up and listen. There is one place where looks like there should be a vacuum line but I don't see one. I will post pic later.