Hey guys! So I purchased this bike for a good deal and it definitely has some wiring issues. Mice chewed up the tail lights leaving exposed wire. Didn’t find any blown fuses. So I attempted to start and have no spark on all 4 plugs. I took the ignition switch out, seeing as a lot of people had issues with diodes, but this ignition switch looks oem and has no diode, I’m assuming this does not have that anti theft feature. The bike cranks and lights work so I’m assuming the switch is good. BUT, following the Honda service manual, with the key on, have continuity between 2 of those wires and nothing else. Should I just order a new switch base or does it seem like it’s fine. It clearly looks like somebody was in here as it was missing a screw from the top cover and both of those screws that hold down the meachanism. I love when people don’t put things back together correctly!

 

Also tested the kill switch, that came back fine, the start button, that also tested fine. 30 amp main fuse is good. I honestly also haven’t taken the gas tank off yet, it’d be nice if I can get it started without pulling the carbs after doing that multiple times on my F3 😅

 

That ignition switch in your photo shows a pink wire. That is the wire coming from the Zener diode and going to the ICM. But you should have continuity across all 3 of the wires when the Ignition switch is in the on position.

 

Since you have the ignition switch out, it should be easy to plug it back in and do voltage checks. With the switch turned on, 3 wires should read battery voltage, whatever that is on your bike at the time. So, the Red wire, the Red/Black, and the Blue/Orange wire should all have 12v on them. The pink wire should have around 9 or something.

 

So checking those wires, I have 12v on the red, and 12v on the red/black wires. Nothing to the pink wire!
Also only have continuity between 2 of the wires.

 

I don't believe that switch assembly is OEM. The wire colors are wrong. When the switch is in the on position you should have continuity across 3 places. If you don't, then you need to replace it with another one. I'd search ebay for an OEM and not a Chinese knockoff.

 

i was hoping that wasn’t the case heh. Looks like this is the only one available anywhere in the world so I’m going to give it a shot. Once I saw that ronayers didn’t have it or at least the base, I knew it would be hard to find.

I noticed cmsnl actually has the base AND the ignition set (350$) but never heard of that site before but maybe I’ll order just the base in case that eBay one I just ordered is bad. Fingers crossed!

 

Good luck and when you get it, don't connect it to your bike right away. Use your meter and make the same checks to see if you have continuity across all 3 places when the key is in the on/run position. Once you verify that, then I'd think you could connect it up.

Keep us posted.

Also, I searched ebay for that one and looked at the photos. Notice that it has the "security allen screws" (could be torx, can't be sure), so you'd need to have that to remove that bottom switch section. You can make the continuity checks from the 4 pin connector easily enough though, so I wouldn't take it apart just to make those checks. The switch assembly you showed originally looked awfully pretty for a bike that old if you know what I mean.

 

Definitely will do! I really appreciate your help, even with my F3 haha you helped me tremendously. I owe you money for your time 🙏🏻

 

Not! Just glad I'm able to help in some way. I do enjoy the electrical challenges.