Sounds like it could be Ethanol related vapor lock.
Ethanol doesn't like carburetors.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapor_lock




If you ride in a hot humid climate, it makes the situation worse. Ask me how I know.


Shell sells Ethanol-free 90 octane but it is up to the individual gas station to carry it or not.


check out https://www.pure-gas.org/ for a map of gas stations w E0.

 

sounds like something for anyones bike but mine, im having electrical issues not a no start/fuel issue. thanks though.

 

Ok, so I'm supposed to have a good 14.5 or so volts at idle right? I attached the volt meter to the terminals and went for a ride and it drops as low as 9 volts at 10k rpms. Is this normal?

Ok so ac voltage from stator at 3k rpms disconnected from r&r is 40 and will climb with rpms. If its tested with it connected to the r&r its only 10volts ac and will drop with rpms. Any idea? This is a brand new r&r and the old one does the same

 

So, you've gone through the charging system, but have you checked the ignition system. If the bike just stalls like it has no spark, then check the coil, the spark plugs and the plug wires. If it suddenly shuts off, then it could be an ignition switch issue. Also, check the fuel pump as well.

Since you didn't really say in what way is "loses power" we have to do a lot of guessing.

 

in my very first message i said "by power i mean battery power" no juice. its dieing because the battery is to low to power everything. if you try to restart the bike after it dies you get the sound of the starter struggling and not being able to turn the engine over

 

ok i must not have done this before, when testing the ohms between the 3 yellows with bike off I get .9 so i figured it was okay, this time I tested the ohms between the 3 with bike running and it was bouncing all over the place anywhere between .2 - 1.8. is this a valid test, can you test it while running? if so then im guessing i got a bad stator...

 

Sorry I know im really blowing this thread up but id really like to ride and im about ready to sell my lawn mower to pay to take this to the shop, ill take being able to ride over tall grass any day..

so anyway, I was looking at the wiring diagram and decided to try somthing new. once the bike was warm and the "problem" started to occur I put one volt meter on the battery posts where I have been, and a second meter directly on the green and red/white of the R&R and I was getting almost a 2 volt difference... so my question is can the wiring or whatever is inside the starter solenoid where the power from the regulator comes back to the battery shot and causing this problem? can I wire the red/white wire directly to the positive post and try that?

https://postimg.cc/image/o168kvbjb/

 

Actually you never said that in your first post. What you said was: "Bike won't have the juice to run and will stahl. Let the bike sit for about 30 min and youre good to go. So I did the usual tests. Bike off battery has 12.9 volts. Bike running it has 13.5 volts."

You also didn't say that the starter was trying to work but was slow. That makes a big difference. The fact that you have 13.5 with the bike running says that power is getting to the battery. A bad starter relay won't cause the bike to stall, just prevent it from starting. The fact that the bike will start after it cools says that it's not a battery or stater issue (unless you are actively charging the battery during those cooling down periods). My guess is that it goes back to an ignition issue. Possible a bad switch. Battery power has to go through the switch for everything to work properly. If you have a switch that is bad, or going bad, you could easily start seeing the symptoms you are describing. You would be surprised at how much heat goes through an ignition switch. The switch heats up, a connection separates a little, and the bike stalls. Then it can't send enough power to the relay to operate the starter properly. But once it cools the connection tightens and the bike fires.

 

@Here2Ride
@Here2Ride , 05-21-2018 07:34 PM
"By power I mean battery power". Bike starts and runs fine, once it gets hot... Like around when the cooling fan kicks on. Bike won't have the juice to run and will stahl.


Is there a way to bypass the ignition switch to check that off, I guess essentially hot wiring the bike.

Still wondering about running the hot red/white from R&R directly to battery