I'd also recommend repairing your pump with the contacts repair kit as already sugested as it worked for me and was cheaper yet easy to do.

Apparently they are good for around 18 - 20K miles

 

Got the new pump installed and have a couple of new questions.

Is the pump supposed to make a noise every time you flip the ignition switch? One time I did that it made a vibrating noise for like a second and I noticed the fuel level in the filter went down (tank was off). This seems like a positive thing no? But why is it only every once in a while that it does this? Wiring fault?

 

The pump is triggered from low pressure. When you turn the key it will fire up to fill the carb bowls until pressurised. Sounds like yours is working correctly well done. Time to get another 20k out of it :-)

 

Well unfortunately, that was a one time occurrence because I won't make any noise when I flip the run switch. The float bowls are also empty so something is still amiss. Im wondering if it is an electrical issue. I found the troubleshooting flow chart in the manual and might start there.

How do the fuel pump transfer relay and fuel cutoff relay operate as far as which signal switches them on and off? Does the cutoff relay need a constant signal to allow the fuel pump to work? Maybe that could be my issue.

 

This is where I'm at btw. The fuel pump is bypassed in this video so even if I get the fuel pump sorted, there is still work to be done. I'm hoping that synching the carbs can fix this.

Please disregard my goofy *** recording skills.

 

Good News! (James May voice)

I made a very simple DIY manometer/carb synch tool. I was putting it off because I wasn't sure if it was worth going to the store to even try but I was just being lazy. Turns out it was very very simple. Bought piece of 1/8" clear hose from home depot, 2 3/16" to 3/16" plastic hose connectors and a tiny bottle of 2 cycle engine oil from autozone. In total it was between $10 and $15.

Once I hooked it all up I was on my way. Cylinders 3 and 4 were waaay off. I evened them out, moved to 1 and 2 which were only slightly off and then 2 and 3 were only slightly off as well. There is a noticeable difference in the idle and I think I may have solved part of my problem. After that the idle was kinda high so I adjusted the throttle stop so it idles around 1300-1400 RPM which is the spec in the manual.

Now I just need to find out why it doesn't want to run with the fuel pump hooked up and only run when bypassed .I synched the carbs with the pump bypassed because it is the only way that I can get it to start.

 

Does anybody know how to check if the problem are just the contacts or the whole pump?

Im doubting on ordering the contacts or buying a new pump.
Contacts would mean u$d 30
and for a pump they have asked me u$d 100.

Help, please.

 

Normally you can here the pump running.

If it is running I would guess it is NOT just the contacts.