Right matey, you will have to check the connection of the new ignition switch ,to see which wire receives 12v to the Blue/Orange wire harness side, with ignition off back probe the other connectors in the ignition connector with your multimeter , then turn ignition on and see which other wire gives you 12v, was the Ignition Switch from China as they dont usually align straight off

 

Yes, came from China, also, just to add, there a harness under the seat near the battery, it branches off at that point into 2 smaller wires with 2 wires in each branch, one of these branches has 12v when tested, the other, which goes to the fan has less than half a volt, like I was saying this wire according to the wiring diagram also seems to go to the ignition swith through another branch, so it has to be the new ignition switch with that extra wire (4 wire switch, original switch has only 3 wires), so I suppose what I need to find out is how do I modify the new 4 wire switch to make it compatible for the original and existing 3 wire harness? What steps should I take?

 

Right matey ,had to read through your posts to see where we are up to, so as your bike is running and its just the fan thats not cutting in we have to find the other live 12v for the fan, so at the ignition connector to the harness we know that the Red wire and Red/Black wires coming from the harness to the ignition connector are in the correct positions, just need to find which of the other 2 wires from the new ignition switch is carrying 12v and change positions in the connector to marry it up to the Blue/Orange wire in the harness side. think we have it there

 

Super, that sounds like exactly what needs to be done, I will keep you posted on the results, thanks again 😎

 

Once you have connected the said wire there's no need to warm the engine up ,with ignition on , touch the wire going to the radiator to Earth and if it's the right wire the fan should come on

 

So here's the latest.
I fiddled around with the ignition wires using a multimeter and I believe I now have it wired correctly as everything is working, however, my battery is goosed, not holding a charge even off the mains charger, I had to jump start it off my car battery and the bike starts and runs fine, have 14 volts at battery while jump leads are connected and everything working but I never got to test fan, it does however have 14 volts running to it according to multimeter, thing is once I disconnect jump leads the bikes revs drop and will cut out if I switch on anything Electrical, such as the headlight , all it has across terminals is 2 volts so I need a new battery.

Question.
Should the bike be able to idle with no battery or dead battery, should the altenator not provide enough current to run the bike once its started and should there not be 12 volts + at battery terminals when bikes running?

 

No the bike wont run with a flat/dead battery , if it had a magneto like the kickstarts have it would as power comes straight from the magneto, next thing to look at is why your battery died , stator and Rec/Reg need checking

 

New rectifier fitted a few years ago so hopefully not that, my guess for dead battery is from non-use (12 months +).

Excellent, hopefully so with new battery everything should be sweet 👍

 

Update.

So after ignition switch wiring altered and new battery fitted today, she's now purring like a kitten and fans blowing as it should, thank you so much for all the advice, much appreciated, this forum rocks ☺ 👍

 

Well done Stevo, you did a good job there