Generally the 4 wire ignition switches are USA, would be better when you get to the bike and have a look at the wiring configuration in and out the connector to and from loom

 

Here are two more photos, you can see the 4 wires from the new ignition switch joined at the original connector which always had just 3 wires, the 4th is blank.

The other photo is of the wires running from the immobiliser surrounding the ignition and on from there to i presume the ecu or cdi, there is a pink wire on that alright but nothing has been done to it, it hasn't been modified in any way like the ignition switch has been removed and replaced.

Is there a name for this immobiliser if its not called a hiss system?

Thanks ☺️

 

Update.

I think the problem may be solved, I managed to get the key light over the temp gauge to go out, by touching the plastic part of the key off the part that surrounds the keyhole, not the metal part of the key, not touching the key off the immobiliser unit, seems like it's very specific, only works when touching the plastic part of the original key off that.

I believe that's it, problem solved, I will try firing it up later today and if its still not working then I'm sure I'll be back on this thread again, otherwise, thanks for the help 👍☺️

 

Yes , sorry matey the chip is in the plastic handle, you will have to keep that key as close to the plastic surround as possible ,it has to be that close, it transfers through the surround to ECU then back again , but if like you saw in the video if the key moves away the bike wont start

 

Here's the 4 wire configuration for the Immobiliser

 

So that's all sorted, bike fired up and runs perfectly, or so I thought.

My F4 hasn't been ridden in over a year and had been resting up in my garage all that time, used to start it up every few weeks to keep things from seizing up, whether that works or not I don't know, but anyway, since the ignition trouble months and months ago I stopped starting it up so it's been idle for at least 6 months, put the new ignition switch in and finally sussed out the immoboliser problem and she fired up, started her today again and left her idling for the usual half hour but today when I went out to switch it off I saw steam bellowing out from under the tank/rad area, lots of boiling coolant poured out the overflow, I restarted it later in the day to check was the fan working and no it is not cutting in when it should, doesn't switch on at all, could the thermostat have seized from non use? My throttle cable needs lubing as it has started to not snap back from open throttle,perhaps the thermostat has suffered the same fate? Any ideas?

 

Take the thermostat out ,place it in a container of boiling water ,check that it opens,if it does it's OK, if it's rusted up replaced with new, you could lube the throttle cables as well once you take the carbs off

 

So, using a multimeter, the volltage at the fan switch, coming from the harness is less than 2 volts, we have a problem here and i've a hunch that it's due to the new 4 wire replacement ignition switch installed, the original was a three wire unit with the 4th connector blanked off, I see from the haynes manual wiring diagram that the cooling fan is wired into the ignition switch so it's a bit of a coincidence that the cooling fan acts up right after this ignition switch replacement, I wonder how this can be rectified without having to source a new three wire ignition switch, I was thinking of running a wire from the 4th wire of the new ignition directly to the cooling fan switch but i'm no electrician and don't want to risk frying anything expensive, any suggestions welcomed?

 

Need to check the Fan switch is getting voltage, take off the side panel, pull of the wire connector to the fan switch on the radiator, with the ignition on touch the connector to a good earth , if fan does not run replace on radiator fan switch, and go back to the ignition switch, Did you alter any of the positions on the new ignition connector, as the bike runs then the Red and Earth are in the right position just have to find the source running to the Blue/Orange wire (Fan Switch) which should be 12v when ignition turned on

 

Fan does not run when earthed using a flat blade screwdriver and even using an external wire from the batteries positive pole, multimeter reads .2 volts at that point.