Hey guy and gals

Right after doing some serious reading and looking and internet searching i found some good info on how to do it only ever done a chain swap on a bike before and that was a doodle thought it must be similar on a motorbike.

If any body can answer these few questions i would be great full.

I have the 1999 F4 and am going to change the front sprocket to -1 and up the rear one to +2

Someone has answered this for me before but thats the set up i want if you want quicker acceleration at start off -1 front +2 rear.

Question 1 if i do this will i need a bigger or smaller chain or can i just keep the same length chain not sure what the stock chain lenght is or even how many teeth the stock sprockets have.

Question 2 i don't have a special tool but am confident i can do the chain removal and install without it. Has anybody done it without the tool before and how easy/difficult did you find it.

Question 3 When i look at buying the sprocket some are different with these numbers 520 or 525 is that the pitch of the teeth and what is the difference.

Also what's the difference with track day sprockets ande normal ones.

S
o thank you for reading and i hope i will get some feedback.

 

1) You can use the same length chain.
OEM sprocket sizes = 16/45.
Factory Honda service manual states 110 links but 108 is acceptable (108 is F4i length).

2) While you can do a removal/install w/o the proper chain tool kit, I don't recommend it. A decent chain tool kit makes the removal & install so much easier...& pays for itself. Of note: you need to properly flare the master link pins to spec & that's difficult to do w/o the tool.

3) OEM chain size is a 525 chain & sprockets. A popular mod is to change the chain & sprockets to the 520 size. While it does decrease rotating mass, you're not going to notice this on the street.

Never heard of "track day sprockets". Perhaps you misinterpreted the explanation for the 520 conversion. I run OEM sized 525 chain & sprockets on both street & track.

Hope this helps.

 

Got cbr thank you very much for that I was unsure about the track say sprocket thought it might be the 525. Also the chain removal tool I think is a must just had a good look at the chain and the master links I could never get them perfectly secure without damaging them prob best to use it for peace of mind.

 

also if you do -1/+2 you will need a speedohealer or speedoDRD or else your speedometer and odometer will be off about 14%

 

You're welcome. Glad to help.

Yeah, the chain tool kit really is a plus to have. I use the Stockton Tool Company chain breaker & rivet tool kit. It does a nice job.

Just follow Incognito's How-to thread...https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mecha...et-swap-97641/. I do mine almost the exact same way.

+1 jeffjones. Going -1/+2, you're going to be running a higher rpm at highway speed.

 

Would you say -1 +1 would be more suitable. Also what is a speedo healer I get that it's because your speedo will be out but where does it go. Maybe a -1 +1 would be better espical when going for a long ride don't want be changing sprockets all the time.

 

A Speedo Healer is simply a unit that calibrates your bike's speedometer & odometer to read accurately. Typical installs keep the unit under the seat.
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Stock sizes of 16/45 are sufficient for everyday use.

There's any number of combination of sizes that you can do. Its all a matter of personal preference. However, if you're wanting to do the adjustments in sizes for that quicker acceleration option that you said you wanted, the -1/+2 is prob the best option.

Experienced throttle control & good clutch work will yield a similar result for the experienced rider. ;-)

 

Gotcbr you said the speedo could be out by 14% So if I was going 69kph would it be running higher or lower does that make sense.

 

So if you actual speed was 69km/hr your speedo would read closer to 80km/hr