Budget F4 TD/Race Build
#1
Budget F4 TD/Race Build
Go here for this thread. I deleted all my posts in here.
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=42644
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=42644
Last edited by DrAwkwArD; 06-02-2011 at 08:00 PM.
#2
Good to have you here DrAwkwArD. I really like threads like this.
There's quite a few of us on here w/ the Sunset Yellow paint scheme, me included. Well, except for the tail which is Honda silver. I did the split-seat conversion some time ago & love it. The first time I had the bike at the track after doing the conversion, I was thrilled. I was able to get off the seat better for the body position I wanted for track riding.
Look forward to more updates as you progress.
There's quite a few of us on here w/ the Sunset Yellow paint scheme, me included. Well, except for the tail which is Honda silver. I did the split-seat conversion some time ago & love it. The first time I had the bike at the track after doing the conversion, I was thrilled. I was able to get off the seat better for the body position I wanted for track riding.
Look forward to more updates as you progress.
#3
#4
Avi, per the measurements I was given of the 08 600RR shock, there should be no problem with fitment. When I get the shock I'll have a better understanding of this, but I think it should go smoothly. The free lengths of the shocks are VERY close if not the same.
The valving on the RRs shock is night and day compared to the F4s. We're talking about a street/tourer bike from 10 years ago compared to a race replica...the changes are many. The spring weight for the RR is an 11kg which is pretty stiff. That should work well for a 200-220lb rider (with gear) and still be soft enough for lighter riders. When choosing springs on RaceTechs website the spring that was needed for my weight was only 1kg more than stock. If I'm lucky, I should be able to just leave the stock sprung the way it is. If not, I buy a $110 spring and replace it...not bad considering how much money has gone into updating the rear compared to respringing/revalving an outdated shock to the tune of $300.
Regardless, I'll update with pics when I install the shock. I'll be sure to take good measurement for everyone.
As for the paint scheme...if I get my way, it won't e black and yellow forever. But that's top secret.
And I DO like the black and yellow, after all it's the colors of the greatest football team of all time....STEELERS!!!
The valving on the RRs shock is night and day compared to the F4s. We're talking about a street/tourer bike from 10 years ago compared to a race replica...the changes are many. The spring weight for the RR is an 11kg which is pretty stiff. That should work well for a 200-220lb rider (with gear) and still be soft enough for lighter riders. When choosing springs on RaceTechs website the spring that was needed for my weight was only 1kg more than stock. If I'm lucky, I should be able to just leave the stock sprung the way it is. If not, I buy a $110 spring and replace it...not bad considering how much money has gone into updating the rear compared to respringing/revalving an outdated shock to the tune of $300.
Regardless, I'll update with pics when I install the shock. I'll be sure to take good measurement for everyone.
As for the paint scheme...if I get my way, it won't e black and yellow forever. But that's top secret.
And I DO like the black and yellow, after all it's the colors of the greatest football team of all time....STEELERS!!!
anyway, I 'll be waiting to see how it works out
#5
#6
#7
I have thought about converting the front end, but most fork sets I find from the RR series are $250 to $400 without clip-ons or brakes. I'd LOVE to do the conversion if I could for under...$500? That's what the RaceTech crap is going to cost unfortunately.
Your thread is great and you're delving much deeper into the engine than I plan on. This bike is hopefully going to be a hobby TD bike, but in the future I'd really like to start racing, but money is definitely the issue, as is time.
In 27K miles, the engine hasn't been gone through. I have a feeling I have a valve job in my future, but when I ran the engine it sounded really tight (as I've heard they do). I probably should go through everything and get all new seals and whatnot, but again money is the inhibitor. If I could get away with just replacing the springs I definitely would...maybe I'll take one of the forks apart and see how the valves look...maybe I can rebuild them?
Who knows...I wish I was rich damn it.
Your thread is great and you're delving much deeper into the engine than I plan on. This bike is hopefully going to be a hobby TD bike, but in the future I'd really like to start racing, but money is definitely the issue, as is time.
In 27K miles, the engine hasn't been gone through. I have a feeling I have a valve job in my future, but when I ran the engine it sounded really tight (as I've heard they do). I probably should go through everything and get all new seals and whatnot, but again money is the inhibitor. If I could get away with just replacing the springs I definitely would...maybe I'll take one of the forks apart and see how the valves look...maybe I can rebuild them?
Who knows...I wish I was rich damn it.
If you ask me, this is a very good deal. Should also be with in your 500$ budget.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-...#ht_2311wt_939
I have a set of BSS öhlins sprung forks I'm going to throw on ebay. I expect around 200 - 300$ for them, so compared I think the RR forks have a good price.
Don't know anything about rebuilding the forks, but can it be that bad? The will to want gives you the abilities to do!
My engine was checked over by a race mechanic last year. So I hope I do not need a valve job yet. Don't know why, but that scares me a little! Look forward to the post though!
I done quite some work to the bike and reusing old seals with no problems so far. Have just ordered a complete set though, since all the manuals I read state to use new ones.
Looking forward to follow you thread.
Cheers
#8
Ah, yeah. Few things I didn't think about/ saw.
You need the top triple and a new front wheel, so that's some extra $ :/
Regarding the swap. For the '06 1000RR it was a direct swap. Bearings and everything fitted. Only thing is that the bike is 5mm lower in front. For me that's great, because I already had lowered it with the standard forks.
Advantage by running a newer front end:
3kgs lost (on the 1000RR, maybe more from a 600RR?)
bigger brake disc's and better calibers.
Of course a F4 front end with the right springs will still be very good and more than good enough for most people. Though I believe I will have better feel with the front tire from the newer forks and better brakes always give's more confidence.
Maybe that's the way to start? Buy a good set of internals, get the valves inspected like you say and see how it goes?
You need the top triple and a new front wheel, so that's some extra $ :/
Regarding the swap. For the '06 1000RR it was a direct swap. Bearings and everything fitted. Only thing is that the bike is 5mm lower in front. For me that's great, because I already had lowered it with the standard forks.
Advantage by running a newer front end:
3kgs lost (on the 1000RR, maybe more from a 600RR?)
bigger brake disc's and better calibers.
Of course a F4 front end with the right springs will still be very good and more than good enough for most people. Though I believe I will have better feel with the front tire from the newer forks and better brakes always give's more confidence.
Maybe that's the way to start? Buy a good set of internals, get the valves inspected like you say and see how it goes?
#9
Highly doubtful it will need it unless the engine was neglected. I wouldn't bother unless you are bored, have the free time, and want to familiarize yourself a little more with the engine.
#10
I have the Race Tech gold rebound/compression valves (along with 1.0kg springs) in my forks and they work great! It is really hard to compare these forks with the front end of my Gixxer (not enough track time on the Gix), but I love the "feel" of the re-valved F4 front end.