Hey all. So I've got a 99 cbr600f4. I laid it down a couple seasons back now. Now for background on it. I bought it from an acquaintance that had somewhat of a space ranger farm, with a few non knowledgeable morally debatable people touching it. So I bought it tore it all apart. Basically rebuilt the carbs from the ground up, bought a new tank, did plugs and coils etc. Had it running for a few seasons. Laid it down from clipping a deer on full lean in a corner. Replaced that left aide engine cover and oil obv. And rode on for another season. Then I smoked a deer head on. Went over the bars, and I've got no clue what all my bike did in the tumble . But yeah, A plate and 9 screws later I was out tearing the bike down and working on it before I made it in for my surgery appointment even. With a "floating " shoulder in a sling. But to the point. I replaced the other side engine cover this time, and in the time of this rebuild I spend a slew of money bexause after. Doing the rear subframe, new plastics, regulator rectifier , stator , ignition, zener diode, all new relays and fuses. Then gave up and took it to a dealership(Binghamton Honda) , and they came back with the same diagnosis I had concluded. All tests point to a bad icm. Which at this point when I took it to the shop, I had already gotten these results and I delivered my bike to them with not one, but 3 icms, and then also some "new" one off ebay from China that was same plug but half the length from plug to the end. And went through every test with each icm and kept getting the same results. Once I picked it back from the shop with their response of uhhh idk 🤷‍♂️, I proceeded to think through possible issues and decided to replace the entire wiring harness. And then run the tests again. Returning to the same results yet again. I don't get how my original, 2 guaranteed pulled from a running bike" , and one "new icm for 99 cbr600f4" could all be nonfunctional. Now throughout all this the kickstand switch , neutral safety switch , ignition (putting 9v out the pink wire to icm), the fuel pump kicks on , there is power to the subharness for the coils, I don't have any peak voltage meter (but I assume the shop went through that process in their diag.) I got guage lights and new battery sitting on a tender, all fuses are good to go, it'll crank all day long but won't start. Doesn't sound like it has any compression issues by any means, but you can tell it's spinning the starter fine but doesn't even seem to attempt to start which I would initially think no spark. But like I said there is power to the coils, and new plugs installed. Oil has been fully flushed bc I changed it then removed rhe engine cover again and refilled with new oil even though the last change never got started up since. I'm at a loss. Been trying to find another f4 to plug and play with but overall I've just been stumped. And it really sucks because I had the rear subframe and pegs and all that powder coated by a friend with the optimistic outlook this wouldn't happen and it'd be running by now. Lol any help or ideas is much appreciated though I've asked many people and mostly get the same responses but figured I'd make an acount on here and give it a shot. Thank you for your time reading my. Novel.

 

Hi and welcome to the forum. I don't trust dealers. Are you getting any spark? Power to the coils doesn't mean that the ICM is telling them to fire. Pull the plugs and see if you are getting spark. Also, verify you have a good ground from the Green wire on the ICM connector. Unplug it and verify continuity to the frame.

 

i just recently put my bike back together after rebuilding the engine and i am running into the same problem. cranks all day but no signs of life. checked for spark at the coil and dont seem to have one. i see in your post (and the duplicate post) that you did not mention anything about the pulse generator (pickup coil). this is on the clutch basket side of the engine. this picks up the motion of the crankshaft and tells the bike when to fire. if this is bad, everything else will appear non-functional. mine turned out to have a broken wire and would read "open" with a volt meter. disconnect yours and check it with a digital multimeter. you want to measure it in ohms.

 

yes sorry I forgot to mention I replaced that also. I will double check on my work, as it has been over a year now i believe since i did all of this. Then after that I'll tear the tank back off to double check on spark.. thanks for the input and ideas!