It started after I let a buddy ride it.... It starts and idles fine.... But *** soon as I get going in first and get it to about 8 rpm it will just bog out and sometimes complelty die.... I have done the following...

Cleaned carbs working on a second carb cleaning...
Changed fuel filter
Changed plugs
Changed battery and rececifier

What else am I missin here.....


Help I want to get out and ride...

 

Throttle Position Sensor is another possibility....

 

Would it be that if it gets worse when I try to keep a steady RPM......

 

Somebody that knows more about how these particular ones work might have to chime in, but I have had symptoms of TPS problems on cars even when trying to hold steady (Nissan Z's were terrible about this).

Perhaps before you mess with the TPS, you might also want to check to ensure you don't have any pinched hoses (vacuum or fuel)

 

Hmm.. that is an odd one. I know the carbs are very finacky on our bikes so it still could be a carb issue even though theyve been cleaned. Have you checked the plugs after it bogs and dies to see if they were dry?

 

Well... I changed the already. But when I changed them It had oil on the due to me overfilling. Could that of hurt my motor... It is bogging out only when I am driving. It will sit in idle but once you start to go after about a minute or 2 it starts to bog and shutter and then finally quits complelty.

 

do the F4's have a pair solinoid valve like the F3's do?
if they do then that sounds like a possibility

 

I have no idea if it does...

 

I think they have only one.... But I have no idea were it is....

 

Hey redzintimidator: are you talking about the "PAIR" system (Honda's bad acronym for "Pulse Secondary Air Injection System") I thought that was a California model deal.

That sucks though man. Did you flame your friend for messing up your baby? that's gotta be step 1 through 5.

Then if i were you I'd do a complete ignition system check (spark, pulse generator, advance) Then go through your carbs, not sure what you mean by "cleaned carbs" but spraying carb cleaner through them doesn't do anything significant. The F4 carbs are a cinch to work on and fun as well. leave them on the rack and just clear out the fuel/air passageways, check you diaphragms, and obviously check all your jets and needle clip settings.

If nothing else, you'll learn something and cross another thing off the list. If you actually have already done this I'd defiantly suspect the ignition advance (pulse generator, not the TP sensor)

One huge word of caution, don't take off your TP sensor. If you go through the safety screws to look inside you may have to send the whole carb assembly back to the factory to be reset. It's never supposed to be messed with.

Good luck