I have a 2000 CBR F4 and need a new chain and sprockets. I do some stunting but don't want to mess w/ the tooth count. My question is, what are the stock sprocket sizes/teeth for front and rear...
My mechanic said I should get a 525 conversion but I'm not exactly sure what that means.
what exactly is a 525 conversion? What are the benefits? How much will it cost? Do I need it?

 

I thought f4's came with 525's stock. its chain pitch. stock gears are 16-45. I just put 520 conversion with -1 +3 and i love it

 

If they come w/ 525 stock should i get a 530? What is pitch? I don't want to change the gearing. What is a good brand of sprockets/chain?

 

530 is overkill in my opnion. the 530 is ment for liter bikes not 600's. i went from stock to a 520 15/48 and i love it.

 

530 is for stretched busas with 400hp...

your sproket and chain is 525 stock, go with the 520 kit... go down one up front and up two in the rear...

pitch is like, the thickness of the chain and sprokets

 

I am sure he bought this bike used and this is his first time changing chain and sprockets and the previous owner did the 520 conversion so he has to "convert" it back.

 

I did buy it used and it is my first time chaning the chain. I'm not sure about the previous owner thing??? but it makes sense since thats wut my mechanic told me.

btw the main reason i dont wanna mess w/ the gear ratio is b/c i dont wanna have to fix the spedometer and odometer since they will be off as a result. Isn't it complicted/expensive to fix those???

 

To tell you the truth they come from the factory with up to a 10% error so you speedo is already off.

 

Ok I just talk to my friend who was with me when I went to the mechanic and he told me that he said that I needed a 520 conversion, so I must have misheard. Sorry for all the confusion. But neway...what are the benefits of a 520 over a 525, reguarding stunting? Also, what brands do you guys recommend?

 

A 520 is going to give you less weight which helps anyways, usually the aftermarket are stronger and have less friction than stock. It's lighter where it counts- less reciprocating mass and unsprung weight means the rear wheel can begin accelerating sooner off the start and can maintain high levels of horsepower. As far as stunting I woud say that the conversion is just the chain and sprocket width and strength, you will have to change your sprocket sizes or gearing to make stunting easier etc. A mild change would be -1 in front and +2 teeth in the back, changing your ratio but allowing easier lifts in lower gears, still keeps most top end, if you want to pull it up at 5 and are good with throttle control and slow stunts you could go all the way to 20 up in back, but even 7 up made any speed over 60 revving the hell out of the bike.