1999 CBR600F4 - no spark at any of the 4 plugs
 

Hello everyone, new to the forum with what seems like a familiar no spark issue.
1999 cbr600f4, no spark at either of the 4 plugs.
ALL new parts: battery, IPG, ICM, TPS, 4 coil sticks, 4 plugs, fuel cut out relay, fuel pump transfer relay, 10amp power relay, main wire harness, fuses, clutch diode, push start/stop kill switch, ALL NEW. Many of you know the 99/00's do not have a BAS (bank angle sensor) so let's not go there, heh.
I've had a certified honda technician check out my bike and he's just as stumped as I've been for the last 4 months now. The bike was running, after pulling the plugs out and cleaning unburned fuel it fired right up. 3 hours later, nothing, no spark. It's been sitting DOA ever since. All the new parts I've installed are after the fact that it wouldn't start again.
Reading 2.7vdc from the IPG to the ICM, reading 12.7 vdc from the blk/wht common wires at the coil sticks. The TPS is showing proper set and variable resistance per the manual. Both the clutch safety switch and the sidestand safety switch check good and operational. The ignition switch also checks good and is operational. Everything is working with the exception of no minimum 100v trigger voltage to the coil sticks. Also keep in mind, I am using 1 new ICM, the original ICM (which was working 4 months ago) and 1 used ICM I purchased off ebay. From what I know through countless hours of testing and research, the possibility of all 3 ICM's being bad is VERY remote. They HAVE NOT suffered any severe shocks, extreme amperage surges or severe impacts that would otherwise destroy an ICM. And yes, the stator and regulator both check good even though they have nothing to do with the primary ignition system. I've followed and read almost every other post related to my no spark issue but have yet to find anyone who's posted their solution or findings. I realize electrical issues are not a 20 minute job, but I've done everything per the service manual and then some. One thread prompted to change the ignition switch being that it was damaged due to theft. My bike does not have any theft issues or damage in that respect. Could it be that even though I've checked and bypassed the ignition switch that it still could be that part? Anyone know what else I could possibly check? Anyone have the "magic" solution to my no spark issue?

Another subtle but quick ICM test I performed revealed these values. Testing from pin 5 (ground) to the other 21 pins on the 3 ICM's I'm using.
Does anyone else out there have the time to test their ICM in the same manor? I would appreciate knowing your results and test values. Thank you.
All measurements are from the ground pin #5 to each of the other 21 pins and in ohms (auto range on fluke model DMM)

05-01 0.2
05-02
05-03 144k
05-04
05-05
05-06
05-07
05-08
05-09 18.6m
05-10 128k
05-11 0.2
05-12
05-13
05-14 2.0k
05-15
05-16
05-17
05-18
05-19
05-20 0.99k
05-21 39.0m
05-22
Does anyone know what the actual pin out values should be? Anywhere I could find a schematic of just the ICM itself? The internal diagram ?? Honda part number 30410-mbw-671 or 771 either ICM can be used for the 99/00 model 600F4's

Update: As some of you may know, ummnn .. some of you may not know .. Honda incorperates a diode inside the ignition switch that when properly working, it drops the 12v battery voltage to 9vdc thru the pink wire into the ICM. I've found the diode shorted and hence allowing full battery voltage to the ICM. According to Honda this is an anti-theft device. While I soldered in a new diode, my bike still has no spark at the plugs. I'm thinking this is a proprietary part Honda uses. Even tho I matched up the diode by appearance, size and value (far as I could tell by the old one), still no spark .. damnit .... heh ..

come on man im rooting for you to fix this...post on here what the problem was. could it be your CDI?

Hey Mike, thanks for the " rootin' "
 

Hey Mike,
It's a tough thing to say that it could be my ICM's, (ignition control modules), cdi, ecu, etc ..
I'm using 1 new, 1 used (off ebay) and the original ICM while having this headache. Every tech I've spoken with agree's with me that it's VERY unlikely that all 3 ICM's can be bad.
I've ordered a new switch base for my bike, being that all the diodes I've tried just don't seem to drop the 12vdc down to the 8-9vdc to satisfy the ICM. Even soldering in a 2k ohm resistor didn't yield any positive results.
Once I get in the new switch base, 95% of the igntion system will be brand new OEM honda parts. Exceptions are the clutch switch and the sidestand safety switch. Both of which check good per the manual. Even tho all the original parts checked good as well, I still couldn't help but do trial and error and replace parts anyway. Once everything is new in the ignition system I won't know what else to do other than start parting out the bike. It just doesn't want to run anymore .. :-(

If I do finally solve the mystery I will surely post the solution, in hopes it will save another F4 owner from the same headaches down the road.

Ok, what am I doing wrong ?!?!?!? I've soldered in several diodes and tried all variations of 2k ohm resistors, my bike it still not getting spark at the plugs ...
Honda's secret says I should see 8 to 9 vdc out of the pink wire into the ICM. The diodes are either allowing lower or way over that value. Does anyone know the exact value resistor I should be using? Or the exact part number for the zener diode?
I'm pretty close to puttin 2 thru it's headlight if I can't get it running. heh ..

FINALLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
anyone who ever has a no spark issue on a Honda motorcycle, please read !!!!!!!
There is a diode in the switch base of the ignition switch. IF that diode pops for any reason you will have a no spark/no fuel pump issue. The value of the diode is 3.9v 0.5watt part number NTE5007A. My 99 will be back on the road soon !!!!!!!! yay ... btw, it's a friggin .39 cent part ...

Thanx for finding this, cuz I'm having the exact same problem.

thanks for finding that out. i have had the same problem for the last mounth. it has cost me alot of money trying to change out parts like you have. i will give that a try and let yall know

Wow.... Talk about frustrating! Seems though you could have sourced a resistor in the correct value that would provide the same voltage drop.