Ok I feel the need to vent some frustration. Well a couple weeks ago I walk out to the parking lot at work and get ready for a nice ride home. Tried starting my bike and it just didn't want to stay on, after a little while the battery was too low to turn the starter so i tried push starting it, at first it worked then a min later it died again. I borrowed a jump box from a coworker and nothing, once the box was disconnected the bike died. About 6 months ago I replaced the stator, rectifier and battery so I wasn't sure what the problem was. After using a friends truck I got her home to my garage. after tearing into her I found the plug to my stator fried to a blackened crisp. the plug on the wiring harness was in pretty sorry shape too. well i took my warrantied stator back to the shop and the new free replacement was on the way. while waiting on the new stator I further investigated the bikes injuries and found the rectifier plug partly melted so the rectifier went back to the bike shop also. I ordered a new rectifier plug thanks to eBay. with the new stator in hand i pulled a new stator plug off a salvage bike, soldered that into place, installed the new stator. My girl is almost whole again, just waiting for my new rectifier and plug.

I did take a chance for some new cosmetics in the down time. I installed a clear led taillight with integrated turn signals and a led license plate light that lights up red with my brakes. I also removed the crappy rubber surround from my oem mirrors and painted them for a sleeker look. Pics to come tomorrow of the mirrors, the lights will have to wait until the bike has power again.

 

Pack the connectors with di-electric grease. That will help insure the integrity of the
connection and prevent corrosion/connection issues, in the future.

Ern

 

I had been dealing with this exact issue! The issue of replacing all the components of your charging system and then it getting cook again six or so months later. I've replaced damaged charging components on multiple occasions with new OEM components such as the stator, battery, RR, and the connecters all at once, but the infamous charging problem just kept coming back!! So here is a warning, this will happen again.
The OEM or OEM style RRs (Shindengen FH012) are a shunt which are not as efficient as the newer mosfet RRs (Shindengen FH012AA). Essentially the new RRs are constructed with different types of diodes. The newer mosfet RRs are better at maintaining a consistent voltage, even when at an idle. In addition to the improved consistent voltage output, mosfet RRs run cooler. Ever put your hand up to an OEM RR and given yourself a burn? The OEM RRs getting really hot is kind of a snowball effect, the shunt RRs are not as efficient as the mosfet RRs and produce more heat as a result. As the they get hot, they also suck at dissipating heat because of the woefully inadequate cooling fins. Due to overheating, they don't handle the load that is put on them. So essentially, the Shindengen FH012 SUCKS and a different RR (GSXR or R1 conversion) should be a serious inquiry.
I finally said "F#$@!#! this ****!" and converted my F3 RR (Shindengen FH012) over to an 2008 R1 RR (Shindengen FH012AA). It requires several several mods, but worth not having to worry about the charging system. In terms of ease, the R1 RR is easiest to work with because of the ability to acquire the necessary connectors.
I also noticed a difference in the wire gauge between the harness and the stator pigtail. So I ripped out the wire for the AC current (yellow wires) in the harness and installed 10 gauge wires. This worked out well because the wires had been damaged from the last cooking of the plugs and they were getting a little too short from the multiple plug replacements. The last mod I did was to the base plate where the RR mounts. The R1 RR is too big for it, so I just fabricated a bigger plate. If one is in a real pinch, I suppose it could just be zip tied.

 

well my baby finally has life back in her. i installed the last of the broken parts, the new r/r today and after a min or two she started right up. it's good to hear that engine purr again. so after soldering in new stator and r/r plugs plus replacing the stator and r/r again the current problems seem to be fixed. now i have to get around to changing the oil and installing the new clutch kit plus the new chain/sprocket kit that should be at my door step and day now. thanks for the advice everyone, a lot really helped. that kind of stuff makes me glad to be on such a active and helpful forum.

 

where did you order the plug for the rectifier? That's like all I need to get my baby run in again :<

 

my next question that red and green wires on RR on my bike was hooked to the battery pos and neg post which i know is not write i have a red with white stripe wire and a green wire in that location that where cut and taped off those wires i think are the one's that should be connected to the RR I'm i correct . thanks in advance for your help. Also when you all replaced your stater did you need to change the plug from the one that came on it to fit your RR cause mine dose not have any where else to plug it into.

so here is my question about stater replacement should there be oil in that cover when you remove it to change stater. or not.

 

Not unusual for oil to be in there. More if it's on the side stand when you remove it.

 

Should only be a little dribble of oil when you remove cover.
Looks like you've got major problems. Do compression-test 1st so you don't waste too much time fixing stator. Will end up wasting time & money if your headgasket's blown.

 

there will be oil behind that cover as there are big holes in the case to allow oil in. You should actually just drain the oil when replacing the stator. Also, it’s looking like you have coolant in your oil. It shouldn’t be so milk shake looking.