Finally got a chance to check the valve clearance this morning and found that on 7 of the intake valves the cam is touching the bucket i cant even get the .038mm blade to fit in there. How do I go about in figuring the math for shims if I have no clearance to start with.

 

Gonna have to do it in 2 steps is my guess. Pull the cams and replace the shims with something ball-park estimate to get your clearance to open up. Reset the cams and then, start over and do a final measure/adjustment.

Ern

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking to. I have to take the shims out anyway to measure them and i guess i can move some shims out of the intake buckets put it back together and check clearence And i guess from there i should have enough info to figure out my shims. I hope. Tthanks man

 

So i finally had some time over vacation to measure the valve shims. Most are right around 2.09 to 2.13. The smallest is 2.05. So it looks like the only way to figure out what I need is to swap shims and measure clearance Or just try to get any clearance would be to put the 2.05 in each bucket put it back together and check it just to see if thats enough. But to do this 15 times I just don't have the time. What would a shop do in a case like this. And do any of you have any ideas on another way to figure this out. thanks

 

I did mine the same way,very time consuming but I guess that's why they charge so much at a shop .

 

A shop is going to pull the cams, replace shims with smaller/thinner ones, re-install cams & measure again. That is really the only way to get it right as you have no measurement to go from. MadHattr059 has the right idea.

 

I was thinking I was going to end up doing it that way. Was wondering if anybody had any 2.05 or smaller shims laying around as I will gladdly buy them. And really if I have to do it with the one 2.05 I have, only the 8 valves on the intake side have no clearance as the exaust side is within tolerance. I really wish there was a mechanic that I trusted in the area I could save myself alot of time as I have very little time to
work on the bike. You would not believe the things that I have experienced through the years at all of the local bike shops these guys have no idea how to do things correctly.

 

It might be worth it to get a shim kit, for your bike. If you do it yourself, you'll save
running to the dealership and back, for the correct ones.. It will, also, give you a
variety of extras to drop in, to get the clearence for the tight valves. They run about
70-80 bucks, and are worth the time they save running around (imo).

Good luck which-ever way you go.

Ern

 

Isn't that unusual? I thought it was normally the hotter exhaust side that go first? Maybe it was done wrong before?

 

Yes, that's too much work and time consuming. Here's what you do. You've basically determined that your valve clearance is close to 0 on 7 of the intake valves. That means that your clearance needs to be increased by what the actual spec is, which is 0.16 +- 0.03 mm. In order to do that you need to subtract this value from whatever size shim you currently have in place in order to determine what size you need to replace it with. The shims are labeled as to what size they're supposed to be as shown here. These are 2.025 mm which is part number 14934-KT7-013 from Honda (they don't show the 3rd digit).


See what you have and subtract the 0.16 mm from them, so 2.025 -.16 = 1.865 mm as the shim size you'd need to install. Honda only makes them in certain sizes in .025 increments. 1.865 is between 1.850 and 1.875.

Now, here's what I'd do. I'd go with the 1.875 size, Honda part number 14928-KT7-013 which would make the clearance error on the side of being tighter rather than looser. You may wonder why I'd make that choice. As the engine warms up, the valve clearance increases, so they loosen up (this is why the engine needs to have sat for 24 hours without running before measuring the clearance). Also, you said that you couldn't get a 0.038 blade into the gap. Well, that's still not zero and there could be some amount of gap that you're not able to measure.

Do this calculation for each of the shims you currently have and replace them with the newly calculated shims. This method should put you really close to where you need to be.