Trouble starting after rebuild, few questions
I have an F2 I've converted to run the ram air airbox/carbs and fuel pump from the F3. It's a ground up rebuild (including the cabrs) I'm having trouble getting it start up, which i'm 99.9% sure is because the floats are sticking and flooding the motor (going to check them tomorrow).
Anyway I have 2 questions which have come from trying to get it fired up.
thanks in advance. |
The fuel pump only runs when the engine is turning over. It will slow down so that you can only feel a click or bump every 2 or 3 seconds or so. If you want to know if the floats are sticking, here is a method you can try. If you have the carburetors off the bike and there is no fuel in them, here's what you do. Attach a clean piece of fuel line to the carburetors. Blow into the end of the hose. You will find that you can blow air through them when the carburetors are in the normal operating position. If you turn them over, then you can't because the floats are holding the float needle closed. If you can still blow air through them, then one of the needles/floats is stuck or sticking. Don't use a compressor, it's too much air pressure.
As for the spark and CDI, I couldn't even begin to hazard a guess. |
Thanks very much for the tip, i didn't think of trying that with the carbs. I'll give it a go before i dismantle them. As i've had to add the fuel pump to the F2 wiring that's how i've got it working, it only runs when the engine is turning over (starter or actually running). I was wondering if the F3 CDI is what actually controls the speed of the pump, i.e. throttle position or rpm dependent as my F2 CDI doent have any of that.
I guess i'll just have to test the coils and see, i'm used to looking at much bigger plugs and the spark is much bigger/brighter. |
I got it going, no 2,3 floats were stuck but no real reason for them to be and no4 was still sticking. I swapped the float bowl and cleaned up the float needed and tube, that seemed to sort it.
Thanks again for the help. |
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