Sigh...
#1
Sigh...
So I've decided to take advantage of the weather and tear my bike apart to fix the turn signal and brake light problem. I've been riding without both for about a month - which equals to about 4 full days in this weather... I know...
Anyway, I'm using this multimeter for testing continuity...
http://www.tylertool.com/cr34mudiwi8f.html
Problem is - I have no idea how to use it. Anyone? I'm trying right now to check the turn signal relay before going any further. I've got the manual and I have no idea to check what it's telling me to do.
Any guesses?
Here's what it says:
Check for turn signal circut connection before testing.
Connect the terminals as described below:
Black/Brown - DC 12 V Positive
Green - DC 12 V Negative
Grey - Turn signal wire of one side; connect other side to ground (frame)
Now, I'm an intelligent dudebut this is rubbish to me. The only wires on my signals are red, black and a black/white.
So... am I a freakin' moron or what?
Suggestions welcome and I'm trying to do it right now - bike is in living room and I got my laptop and WiFi so let 'er rip!
Anyway, I'm using this multimeter for testing continuity...
http://www.tylertool.com/cr34mudiwi8f.html
Problem is - I have no idea how to use it. Anyone? I'm trying right now to check the turn signal relay before going any further. I've got the manual and I have no idea to check what it's telling me to do.
Any guesses?
Here's what it says:
Check for turn signal circut connection before testing.
Connect the terminals as described below:
Black/Brown - DC 12 V Positive
Green - DC 12 V Negative
Grey - Turn signal wire of one side; connect other side to ground (frame)
Now, I'm an intelligent dudebut this is rubbish to me. The only wires on my signals are red, black and a black/white.
So... am I a freakin' moron or what?
Suggestions welcome and I'm trying to do it right now - bike is in living room and I got my laptop and WiFi so let 'er rip!
#3
#4
RE: Sigh...
Okay, I've removed the relay and when I activate the turn signals the same thing is happening when the realy was installed...
So I pretty much need a new relay, huh?
Before I would remove the relay, when I activated the turn signals, the left for example, both front and rear signals turned off. When I push the signal button back in they come back on but nowhere in between was a binky blinky. Then I removed it and it does the same thing...
Relay is shot??? I'm thinking the taillight could just be a bulb - gonna check that now.
I still wanna know how to use this tester to check stuff though - anyone?
Bueller?
So I pretty much need a new relay, huh?
Before I would remove the relay, when I activated the turn signals, the left for example, both front and rear signals turned off. When I push the signal button back in they come back on but nowhere in between was a binky blinky. Then I removed it and it does the same thing...
Relay is shot??? I'm thinking the taillight could just be a bulb - gonna check that now.
I still wanna know how to use this tester to check stuff though - anyone?
Bueller?
#5
#6
#7
#8
RE: Sigh...
Well, I guess I can attempt to help you even at the risk of being called a ***** again.
I don't know how much electrical engineering experience you have so I'm assuming you have none. Continuity, simply put, means a line in your circuit is clean.
Here is your multimeter:
The continuity setting on your meter is the dial position between the green 200 ohm setting and the blue 9V battery setting. put the dial there. Conventionally, the black probe for your meter goes in the COM input and the red probe, for continuity, will go in the V/<omega>/mA input.
When you connect two points together, the meter should beep (or something) to indicate that the connection between the two points is continuous.
Connect the black/brown wire to one of the probes (doesn't matter which) and the other probe to the + post on your battery. There should be continuity here.
Connect the green wire to one probe and the other probe to the - post on your battery. There should be continutiy here.
Connect the grey wire to one probe and touch the frame with other probe (the frame is often used as a ground source). There should be continuity here.
If there is no continuity, then there is a break in your circuit somewhere (e.g. broken wire, blown fuse, etc). You have to fix that.
Some side notes:
- as already mentioned, your wire colors likely do not match because you have aftermarket turn signals
- I'm not sure which manual you are looking at because stock turn signal wires are blue (or orange), blue/white (or orange/white), and green for Honda bikes. Its been that way for years.
[Homer]
Urge to say smarta$$ remark rising.
[/Homer]
ORIGINAL: KidCr3nshaw
Anyway, I'm using this multimeter for testing continuity...
http://www.tylertool.com/cr34mudiwi8f.html
Problem is - I have no idea how to use it. Anyone?
Anyway, I'm using this multimeter for testing continuity...
http://www.tylertool.com/cr34mudiwi8f.html
Problem is - I have no idea how to use it. Anyone?
Here is your multimeter:
The continuity setting on your meter is the dial position between the green 200 ohm setting and the blue 9V battery setting. put the dial there. Conventionally, the black probe for your meter goes in the COM input and the red probe, for continuity, will go in the V/<omega>/mA input.
When you connect two points together, the meter should beep (or something) to indicate that the connection between the two points is continuous.
I'm trying right now to check the turn signal relay before going any further. I've got the manual and I have no idea to check what it's telling me to do.
Any guesses?
Here's what it says:
Check for turn signal circut connection before testing.
Connect the terminals as described below:
Black/Brown - DC 12 V Positive
Any guesses?
Here's what it says:
Check for turn signal circut connection before testing.
Connect the terminals as described below:
Black/Brown - DC 12 V Positive
Green - DC 12 V Negative
Grey - Turn signal wire of one side; connect other side to ground (frame)
If there is no continuity, then there is a break in your circuit somewhere (e.g. broken wire, blown fuse, etc). You have to fix that.
Some side notes:
- as already mentioned, your wire colors likely do not match because you have aftermarket turn signals
- I'm not sure which manual you are looking at because stock turn signal wires are blue (or orange), blue/white (or orange/white), and green for Honda bikes. Its been that way for years.
Now, I'm an intelligent dudebut this is rubbish to me. The only wires on my signals are red, black and a black/white.
So... am I a freakin' moron or what?
So... am I a freakin' moron or what?
Urge to say smarta$$ remark rising.
[/Homer]
#9
#10
RE: Sigh...
ORIGINAL: KidCr3nshaw
So I've decided to take advantage of the weather and tear my bike apart to fix the turn signal and brake light problem.
So I've decided to take advantage of the weather and tear my bike apart to fix the turn signal and brake light problem.
The only wires on my signals are red, black and a black/white.
But LP signals are as follows:
LP <-> function <-> bike
red = flasher = blue (left), orange (right)
black = running light = blue/white (left), orange/white (right)
black/white = ground = green
I may have left and right wrong but you get the idea.