I was looking for that tool on google and ebay but didnt know what title it'd be under. thanks

And will I be able to tighten the pilot screws until they seat gently and then back them out however many turns, without taking the carbs off?

And I do have a carb sync tool, but not sure how that applies here.

 

Yes, you can use that tool with the carbs on the bike. As you said, gently turn the jets until the stop, do not force them as doing so can damage the seat. Be careful as they are spring loaded and can give you a false bottom out.

The carb sync tool can be used to fine tune the pilot jets. A lot of people just do it by ear, but I've had really good success with using the sync tool. If you've ever counted the turn in's on the pilot screwson a stock bike that hasnt been touched, you'll notice that none of the carbs are exactly the same. they are usually close, within an 1/4 turn of each other. so your starting point of 1 and half may be ok. If its not, I would try and turn them all out 1/4 turn, then another.. if it doesnt improve or gets worse, start going in. But one and a half is right around where stock settings should be. Its not that you can't set them without the tool, most people do, its just more precise with it. But, if you get your bike running well, then that should be good enough.

Just be sure to have the bike completely warmed up. Also, this will probably take some time, so a fan blowing into your radiator is a good idea. Also, your tank removed with an external gas source is a good idea too.

 

So if I were to use the carb synchronizer to fine tune the pilot screws, would I know that each one is set correctly when the vacuum is greatest for that cylinder? In other words, what do I look for when using the gauge to set the correct amount of turns?

 

Sort of. You start out with all of them 1 and a half turns out. Then, start with the number one carb, get the maximum vaccum you can with the bikes idle still ok, then turn it back in 1/8 turn. This will ensure the mix is richenough as maximum vacuum is on the edge of lean.If you go too far out, it will lean out and the idle will get rougher. So it takes a good ear. Then make the others the same as the number one carbs vacuum. Its pretty finicky. And this only works as long as the carbs are mechanically synced already. When your done, you shouldnt be more than 1/4 turndifference between them all. Also, I probably wouldnt go more than 2 and half turns out. They should fall somewhere between that. So, somewhere between 1 1/2 and 2 1/2 turns out, within 1/4 turn across them all is where they should end up.

Im working off memory right now as I havent done this for quite a few years. But Im pretty sure thats the method I used.

 

OKay doing a mechanical synchronization before hand is easy enough. I now see how you use the sync gauges to help you.

I just went ahead and purchased that tool that you linked me too and am glad that the seller is in NY, it should be here in NJ pretty soon I hope.

Will it be easy to feel when the pilot screws seat GENTLY using this tool? The tool seems overkill in that you won't feel much sensitivity with it. Is it going to be easier than it looks to use and tune with this tool?

 

It is a little tricky. It wont be as easy as if you had the carbs out, but its not too bad. The handle is still basically a 1 to 1 ratio, just basically a long screw driver. the handle is still and average size, so your input isnt multiplied at all, your just twisting the handle. It looks like it would, but it doesnt. In fact, the internal is a flexible shaft, that will actually spring back a little if too much force is applied. So it kind of limits how much force you can put on it.

 

You know I had no idea that the handle twists? That's why this tool didn't make sense to me!!!!

Thanks a ton - justasquid

It's already been shipped from NY so hopefully it's here within 2 days. I think my rough idle can be narrowed down to running lean at idle. I've even checked the ignition pulse generator resistance per the manual and that and the coil resistances are good.

So to start, i'll do a mechanical carb sync once more. Then with the engine running (and warm) I will turn all 4 pilot screws clockwise until they seat. (i am assuming this will make the engine run very lean) Then I back them out 1.5 turns counter clockwise starting with cyl #1. The turn 1/4 turn out at a time until the sync gauge reads highest vacuum. The turn 1/8 turn clockwise and do this for all 4 one at a time?

 

sounds like your on the right track. However, if you have the engine running and turn the pilots in all the way, it will more than likely stall. You will probably have to set them around 1 and half to start with the engine off. then start the engine and let it warm up. Dont forget the fan blowing into the radiator.

As for setting the initial carb, once you reached maximum vacuum with the idle stillgood,you turn that one backan 1/8 turn. this one is done, there is no more adjustment on the number one carb. You then set the rest of them to match the number one carb. set the number two carb, then the third then the fourth.

 

That tool came in today but it doesn't work. It doesn't have a D-Shape in it, but rather a straight edge like a flat-head. Am I just using it wrong or is it not the right tool for the job?

I went ahead and called some honda dealers and one of them nearby had one pilot tool leftwit the D-shaped tip. I was quoted at $89.99 and thought that I was going in to purchase the genuine honda tool, but it ended up being a Motion Pro tool with multiple tips (D one included). SoI purchased it and had quite a hard time screwing and unscrewing the pilot screws as if they were glued tight.

I ended up having all 4 at 2.5 turns out. This cleared up the idle FINALLY! And the throttle response from idle is amazing. Riding the bike was a phenominal experience. I've never felt it pick up RPMs so quickly and smoothly from idle!

Luckily the seller of the tool from Ebay agreed to a refund if I ship it back and take a loss on the shipping to here and back.

Is 2.5 turns a poor final adjustment or is every bike different on that?

 

the general rule is if you are 3 turns out, you need to increase the jet size, if you are 1 turn out, you need to decrease. So any adjustment within1-3that is ok. The reason I suggested 2.5 to be the limit is the factory settings should have fallen within that range and it they shouldnt be any further out than that.

It sounds like your adjustment is good. As long as the bike performs, you should be fine. It would hesitate if it were too rich or too lean. But a check of your plugs after few hundred miles wouldnt be a bad idea either.

sorry about the link on ebay. I thought it was what you needed. Glad to see your getting your money back. Also, Glad to hear you got her running better.