which regulator/rectifier is best to use?
 

I have a 1996 600 F3 that I've had for about 3 1/2 years. I've been through 2 batteries ( on the third) and just went through about the fifth regulator/rectifier. I've had 3 stock ones and two with the cooling fins, all have burnt up. Just back in February 2010 I replaced the battery with a brand new Uasa brand (3rd one) and replaced the R/R with a brand new finned one (fifth one). Everything was fine, I checked all the voltages etc. when I installed them, no problems. been riding it since end of February. Last night I rode it to work, Cranked fine when I left the house, ran fine all way to work. I did notice a weird smell when I got off of it at work but never suspected that it was my bike, just thought it was an "odor in the air". just before dark ( about 3 hours or so later) I went to move my bike closer to the building and it barely turned over like the battery was dead. I pushed it off and it fired right up no problem. I noticed some black stuff on my muffler and swingarm and thats when I noticed it came from my R/R! The inside had got hot and melted out AGAIN after only 2 months! It didn't melt the plug or wires just the insides of the R/R. To back step just a minute, last week I did have a small accident in which I laid it down in a ditch but no major damage just scratches and a couple of cracks in plastic, actually rode it home. could the accident have something to do with it or just that fact that these bikes have crappy charging systems?
I'm tired of replacing R/Rs and I've read on here where some have used the Suzuki GSXR R/R, some the Yamaha R6 R/R, even a Kawasaki ZX10 R/R. Which is the best one to use? This is the LAST time I'm planning on fixing this bike. If it craps out again I'm getting rid of it. Let me know your thoughts and/or suggestions, which ones you've use and what models (if it matters) and how long you've had it in place and how well (or not) it performs. Got to get something done or get another bike. Oh and I'm planning on checking the ENTIRE electrical system from stator to R/R BEFORE I install another. Battery shouldn't be hurt since its only 2 months old But I'm gonna have it checked too.

I've replaced mine with one from a gsxr 750 a week ago. The rr just looks like it's better made to do the job. Hardwired it and soldered. No problems so far :)

This is going to be my LAST attempt at fixing it. If it does it again after converting it, IT'S GONNA BE GONE ! !

Thats what I did dude!! My bike has had the charging problems, but I fixed it and it has been running very well since the beginning of the season. Before I could have another problem with it (and throw more money into it) I decided to sell it.. which took place a couple of hours ago haha

I was so frustrated at it the other night I asked a guy at work if he wanted to buy it but he could only offer me $800. I'll give it another shot but thats it.

This is a common weakness with our bikes. So much so, that when I took it to my mechanic & he showed me the box of replacement Regs he keeps ready. It's also a problem with some VTR's as well.
What he installed was a heavy duty one & only required another hole to be drilled (as its wider) but the wiring just clipped together. Have not had any problems with it since (4 years ago). It was cheaper to buy & have installed than the price original Honda item alone.
I see a lot of F2's & F3's that come up for sale actually mention the original reg as being replaced so potential buyers aren't put off as its so well known a problem.

Perhaps looking at the stator/generator windings - may be burnt.
It would cause all the problems you are having - my 1000F did the same thing and I blew 3 regulators before I replaced the stator/generator. The wires in the coils burn out (can't be seen) and the resistances go all wrong and you burn R/R's. I've had no problems with mine (knock on wood) since I found the problem.
Have it checked with a mega by a competent electrician, and you'll know straight away.

I concur, check the stator, if it is shorted it will burn up rectifiers at an alarming rate, its not unusual for them to go bad. I personally am running an electromotive rectifier with a bigger heat sink, no problems so far.

The nice thing about a Stator is that there is not much too it and it's easy to check with a meter. To test with a meter, you just measure ohms (resistance) across any 2 of the yellow wires that are in the connector that go to the R/R. The connector needs to be unplugged and the ingnition turned off. The proper value to read would be 0.1 - 1.0 Ohms. That is a very low reading, but remember that it's just a coil of wire. Make checks across all 3 combinations of the yellow wires. If any of them read outside of the specification, then you should replace it.

I'm currently using GSX/R regulators on both my F3's. The original on my F3 melted, and the other I just replaced as a precautionary measure.

I checked the resistance across the 3 stator wires each combination was .6 ohms. I then checked the stator on my F2 project bike and it read the same thing .6 ohms. So that means the stator is good right?

Ok I went out there and put my fully charged (13.22 volt) battery back on the bike. I had to put my old stock R/R back on it due to the current one was shorted out. I cranked it up and checked the voltage across the battery at idle: 12.49 volts. Checked it at 5000 RPM: 12.57 volts. At 2500 RPM 13.16 volts. After it sat there and warmed up to operating temperature I then re-checked the voltages: Idle- 12.50 volts, 5000 RPM- 13.6 to 13.7, at 2500 RPM 12.82 to 12.97 engine off 12.91. I then re-checked across the stator wires and still read .6 ohms

According to the " fault finding flow chart" I found on here my charging system is " perfectly ok" and suggests to spray connectors with wd40 or contact cleaner to clean them and avoid problems in the future. I'm now going to go check the conectors.