Rear Brake
Ok, I'm not mechanically gifted, but i know my way around the wrench. I have a Clymer Repair manual, and am considering changing my rear brakes.
When I press my rear brakes, it doesn't "click" as in, I can't lock my rear tires like i use to.. It seems difficult to stop the rear tire. I rarely use the rear brakes anyway, but when I need to, I would prefer it to work. I checked the fluid and the lines, and the pad... it's all good? Does anyone know what might cause "bad braking" i press as hard as i can and it still doesnt lock the tires. Help me!
When I press my rear brakes, it doesn't "click" as in, I can't lock my rear tires like i use to.. It seems difficult to stop the rear tire. I rarely use the rear brakes anyway, but when I need to, I would prefer it to work. I checked the fluid and the lines, and the pad... it's all good? Does anyone know what might cause "bad braking" i press as hard as i can and it still doesnt lock the tires. Help me!
Wot sort of pads have you got fitted? (by that I mean wot type of compound)
I had the same thing happen short while ago, cos when i replaced them I used non originals (of course) and went for the "Sport" compound (high metal content), which need really high temps to work properly, the hotter they get, the better they work, which I don't seem to get to on mine, I don't commute or drag **** in the twisties, so I'm not hanging off them all day, replaced them with "Sport tourer" types and they work fine. Thats not to say that this is your problem, if u say the pads are fine then, it could be you need to bleed your brakes, and that's a good time to replace the fluid completly anyway. Did you take pads out to check them?, see if they haven't glazed up, which can have the same affect as the sports compound. (you can break the glaze with the careful use of a course file
Also if you have taken the pads out (maybe when you looked at them) have you installed the large anti-rattle clip back in correctly??
That's the good news, if none of the above, your master cylinder could be kaput and in need of an overhaul.
I had the same thing happen short while ago, cos when i replaced them I used non originals (of course) and went for the "Sport" compound (high metal content), which need really high temps to work properly, the hotter they get, the better they work, which I don't seem to get to on mine, I don't commute or drag **** in the twisties, so I'm not hanging off them all day, replaced them with "Sport tourer" types and they work fine. Thats not to say that this is your problem, if u say the pads are fine then, it could be you need to bleed your brakes, and that's a good time to replace the fluid completly anyway. Did you take pads out to check them?, see if they haven't glazed up, which can have the same affect as the sports compound. (you can break the glaze with the careful use of a course file
Also if you have taken the pads out (maybe when you looked at them) have you installed the large anti-rattle clip back in correctly??
That's the good news, if none of the above, your master cylinder could be kaput and in need of an overhaul.
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Hayden06F4i
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Jun 17, 2008 09:50 AM



