CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

R/R Questions

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  #21  
Old 10-16-2009, 07:23 PM
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Sorry to hear about the housing. You should be able to get it cheaper at mrcycles.com that what you can at bikebandits.com.
So the battery has a clean bill of health.
Here is something that I've stumbled across (link at bottom). It's a good read and I think it could help out with this situation. The bike is idling rough because the voltage is too low, so.... maybe a new and improved (MOSFET type of RR) and a couple other modification just might resolve the situation. Guess I can be a guinea pig on this one.
On my bike, if the idle is rough when the fan is running and the lights get brighter as the rpms increase, it is an indicator that there is an issue in my charging system. I started to notice this phenomenon and so I inspected the connectors of the charging system before something expensive was damaged (RR or stator). Guess what I found, the connection between the stator and wire harness had been cooked. I mean, REALLY COOKED to the point of where I had to cut it apart with a dremel. I couldn't break it apart with a pair of pliers because it became a sold mass on the inside. Luckily the connector at the RR didn't show any signs of over heating. I just replaced all this stuff three months ago along with a new RR and stator from Honda.
I think that I am going to do the modification because of the RR for our bikes is flawed from the get go (from what I have read thus far). I'm still reading up on the difference between a Shunt and MOSFET RR, but so far everything I have read says a MOSFET RR is much better.
Before this whole ordeal started, I would noticed my bran spankin new RR would get really hot and it would only take a few minutes to get to this point. From my findings, Shunt RR (our RR) are prone to overheating by design and overheating is what causes RR to fail prematurely. A MOSFET RR runs much cooler and is much better at regulating the voltage even when at an idle.
In addition, I am going to cut out the yellow wires for the stator in the main wire harness and replace them with 12 gauge wire. I have two different sizes of wire at the moment for the stator wires, one at 12 coming out of the stator and the other at 14 which is the wire harness portion. I'm hoping by having 12 gauge wire all the way to and from the stator, I can lower the resistance and stop cooking the stator plug.
I am also looking into ways of lowering the load on the electrical system by means of using LEDs. I'll let ya know if I find anything.

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html
 

Last edited by marc0011; 10-16-2009 at 07:25 PM.
  #22  
Old 11-08-2009, 09:59 PM
P_Glasovatz's Avatar
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Hey Courtney (Marc) sorry its been so long since ive replied to this thread ive been really busy for the past month. Have you had any luck with your electrical problems? I cleaned up my wiring to all my lights (re-cut, saudered, and shrink-wrapped) and it seemed to help a little bit, but not really lol I think it made me just feel a bit better. Took her out for a ride today for probably the last nice day of the year, r/r was really cookin when I stopped at a stoplight for a few minutes, probably the hottest its ever gotten. Did you switch to the higher gauge wire on the harness?

O yea and as for the LED lights- I switched over to the clear alternitives integrated tail-light and it didnt make a difference (well it made a difference in load but it was negligable).

I was also wondering judging by the pictures I posted up earlier, what type of R/R do you think I have on right now? It was installed by the PO so I have no idea. I think it looks like the newer Honda one, but im not sure.

Thanks,
Phill
 
  #23  
Old 11-10-2009, 08:51 AM
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That is the R/R that I have and I got it from Honda. They just overheat so easily from idling and from what I have read, it is the design of the RR that causes that. I haven't had time to replace the wire and upgrade to the R1 RR, I've been pretty busy myself. I'll let ya know how it goes when I get it in.
 
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