If you tested the system and all the voltages seems to be fine you can do one more thing in case it is not your battery that gives you hard time. You can actually connect a voltmeter to your battery and ride with it. That will give the true story. When I had problems with my R/R all the voltages were fine when the bike was sitting but for some reason I fried my battery. I rode with voltmeter for a week and noticed that voltages spiked up to 18 volts sometimes!!!! Not very convenient but was worth it.

 

Desperado- Thats awesome I was actually thinking about doing that! If I find out its not the battery im going to have to rig it up like you did. My volt meters yellow and my bike is black and yellow so itll look pretty cool too. Maybe ill make it perminate and rig it up on my triple tree haha jk.

 

Good luck man. Its actually fun. Dont look at the digits for long though or you ll get a habit of it..as I did LOL.

 

I took my battery in to the battery shop today and had the load test performed. According to the store employee, my battery was rockin. I thought it was funny lol never heard a battery referred to as rockin. But anyway it was putting out even more CCA then what its rated for- in the 170 range- and the charge level was a tiny bit below full charge which is pretty sweet considering ive had the power/engine on numerous times this week and I havent rode it at all to charge the battery. This was good but somewhat disappointing news, however, as I was really expecting the battery to be bad. Looks like ill be testing some other variables now.

This doesnt have anything to do with this thread, but I thought id throw it up here anyways.
I decided to take my bike for a spin when I got back home. Bike started up great, rode well. I noticed when I was about five minutes from home I had a small coolant leak. Went back home only to discover that my thermostat housing had a small crack in it, and when I took it home the housing broke apart.





Minor setback. Looking for a replacement, probably will order a new one from BikeBandint seeing that there arent any used on Ebay and my local salvage yard is a rip-off. I just replaced the O-Ring on the housing because I didnt when I replaced my thermostat. I used the correct torque on the housing bolts, so Im thinking the O-ring must not have been packed in well enough causing it to crack the housing. Oh well **** happens lol not a huge deal.

 

Thats interesting , my bikes at a shop being tested for same sought of
things at present. Ive had my battery on a optimate 3 tender twice and
it showed a full charge , i just assumed it must be ok , so it can still have a bad cell and shown full charge then? i would be happy if it turned out
a bad battery for us both , cheap fix

 

Funny timing , posted that as you must have been to , and we are on a diffrent side of the world bugger about the pump housing but at least the rest checked out.

 

Haha yea im a bit disappointed about the housing but it happens. Hopefully your battery turns out to be the problem with your bike thats deffinetly cheaper then the other things that could be wrong. As you saw mine turned out to be more then OK, so I am going to be testing the pulse generator next once I get my cooling system back in order. Ill also rig up my volt meter like Desperado did just to see if I get any high fluctuations when riding. You should let me know what your shop says the problem is.

 

Just found this thread

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f4-18/f4-stalling-out-when-hot-problem-solved-99463/

Kinda sounds like the problem I am having, minus the stalling out (im assuming that my problem will eventually lead to stalling out if it persists.)

Maybe I should check out the ICU then...hmm

 

Had a quick question- should I be receiving 12V to all directional signals/license plate light? Im receiving around 11V to the directionals/plate light at the moment.
Sorry for the dumb question. Still havent received that thermostat housing yet, so im getting a bit restless.

 

My bike did the same thing in June. The battery went bad and shorted the headlight, tach, main ignition switch and r/r. I had everything replaced but the r/r and the bike run like crap. I bought a heavy duty r/r off ebay and it runs better than when new. Your battery and r/r would be the first things I replaced in trouble shooting. And since your voltage is unpredictable it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a voltage meter on the bike.