God bless fellow cbr riders, hope you’re having a good day. I’m just a squid that’s currently working on my first repair.

basically, I have seen that whenever people are diagnosing their ignition switch they mention a zener diode or a pink wire. And also how it should be measuring up to 9.1 volts.

the thing is that my bike has neither to my understanding. I might be missing something but here’s a photo of it.

This is bottom of ingition switch

also my bike currently cranks as if it wants to start but it simply doesn’t.

im willing to adhere to all good advice I receive just let me know what information is needed for a deeper understanding. I appreciate your time for reading this. All Glory to God

 

When was last time it ran perfectly?
What happened between then and now?

 

Last time it ran was exactly 2 months ago that was right after I got the carbs cleans. It stopped working maybe 2-3 weeks after that. I was riding home when my opening my throttle didn’t lead to acceleration. Then shortly after I stalled.

I manage to turn it back on and it stalled again after I tried speeding up. I got it running once more after that and decided to ride in the friction zone all the way home to prevent it from stalling on me again.

i made it home and that was when i turned it off and i couldn’t get it back on ever since 2 days ago.

it managed to stay on for maybe 2-3 seconds from a fully charged battery and some starting fluid. But that doesn’t even work anymore

 

Then bike didn’t come with zener security circuit and doesn’t require it to run.

Most likely issue is with safety interloc circuit: neutral, clutch and sidestand switch. These form and/or logic circuit and ignitor will refuse to fire sparks if it detects unsafe condition.


1. Measure battery voltage with everything OFF, volts = ???

2. Measure battery voltage with key ON, start/stop=RUN, volts = ???

3. Measure battery voltage during cranking, volts = ???


4. In neutral, do you get green light on dash?

5. Test for spark. Do you have spark at all 4 cylinders? What colour?


Unplug ignitor.

6. at ignitor connector, measure resistance between light-grn wire terminal and chassis-ground, ohms = ???

7. at ignitor connector, kickstand up, measure resistance between grn/wht wire terminal and chassis-ground, ohms = ???

8. at ignitor connector, clutch squeezed, measure resistance between grn/wht wire terminal and chassis-ground, ohms = ???

 

yes sir I’ll bring you all those number tomorrow

Thanks for getting back to me. Just to be sure. All wires from Number 6-8 is located at the ecu connector correct? If not then where?

but if it is at ecu then when measuring resistance with the clutch squeezed and kickstand down I won’t need the battery in right? Since it’s resistance that I’m looking for. Also the highest voltage for the battery I’ve tried to start the bike at was 13v and still it didn’t start.

I should also mention I primary used bump starts to get her going before she completely stopped working on me. I hope that didn’t do any irreversible damage. God bless bro

 

We are load-testing battery. Voltage during cranking says it all. Not unusual for fresh off charger batteries to register +13v. But when stressed, they drop too much power and not have enough to run ignitor and fire sparks.

Then we also investigate other causes of no-spark condition. Yes, #6-8 at ignitor connector.

 

these are the ohms measurements

6(light green to ground)- 2.9ohms

7green and white to ground with kickstand up) 3.6 ohms

8( green and white clutch squeezed and kickstand down)- 311 ohms

Let me know what other info you need thanks for your assistance

 

im not sure how important this information is but for some reason the bike cranks exactly the same when I try to start it while the ecu is connected and disconnected. Could it be a faulty ecu? Thanks Dan ur the man

 

good evening, I decided to test the green and white wire once again for resistance while the kickstand was down and clutch squeezed and I received a OL signal. It must be something wrong with my clutch system. What’s the next step? New clutch diode, or switch? Thanks in advance

 

Do tests #1-5 first. Later ones are useless if earlier ones fail.