I got everything fixed on the motor took it to the shop paid 600.00 to get the carb rebuilt , a week later its done and running strong +2 on back -1 teeth on front 520 conversion and stage 1 Jet. Today i drove to work and the brakes were feeling diff. so i tested the brakes and as i was coming to a hard stop the back tire vibrated so hard that it shook my to back fairings almost completey off (****). ??? I parked it and i would have checked it out later. AT BREAK I HEADED TO MCDYS AND IT STARTED TO BOG OUT I GIVE GAS AND NOTHING JUST SLOWLY COMING TO A STOP. I PULLED OVER IT CUT OUT , I TRIED TO START NOTHING SO I USED THE CHOKE ALL THE WAY AND IT KICKED OVER AND RAN . PULL CHOKE OFF NOTHING. I WAITED A FEW MIN THEN TRIED AGAIN STARTED RIGHT UP. i THEN DROVE 1mi itdid the same thing but it wouldnt start this time until my buddy came 20min later. WHEN MY BUDDY GOT THERE I TRIED AGAIN WITH THE CHOKE ALL THE WAY ON STARTED RIGHT UP BUT WHEN YOU REMOVE CHOKE CUT RIGHT OUT AND WONT START. ANYBODY KNOW THESE SYMTOMS APPRECITATE IT GREATLY IM NOW 3500.00 DEEP STILL NO BIKE

 

I had a problem with my bike running (Still do but other problems) where I had to choke it to run it. I had two fouled plugs on the left side. Replaced those and it fired up 1st hit.

 

I would follow up on Asmittie84's advice first. If you look at the plugs and they're all good, check the throttle stop screw next. It's located on the left side of the bike right behind where your thigh would pass or... that little opening in the tail fairing I guess is the easiest way of saying it. Turn it to the right and the RPM's should go up and if you turn it to the left, the RPM's should go down. If you don't get a response, then it has fallen out of place whichwould be the cause of your problem. Getting it back it will be a real tool.

 

If carbs are synched it should idle around 1200RPMs. If they are out of synch Clymens(?) has a manual that tells you how to adjust but you have to have a tach that reads in 50 increments. I think you first seat all synch screws (Screw up until it stops but don't force it once it stops). Then turn out 1 and 1/4-1/2 turns. I can't recall but it's somewhere in there. Note when you read the manual it will say 2 and 1/2 turns out but that is for the F2s that are shared in the book with the F3s. F3s are only around 1 turn out.

You'll also have to have a special tool from Honda to synch the carbs. It's a D-fitting (Wrench head should look similar to a D as in round on one side but notched straight down on the other). If they have been jetted I think a lot of shops slot the synch screws so you can use a flathead in the future. When I had my carbs synched he slotted it for a flathead. Though next time I touch it I'll have full exhaust and be putting it on a Dyno to tune it.

 

It could definitely be fouled plugs but you have to ask why they fouled in the first place. Normally full choke indicates plugged slow (idle) jets in the carbs. You hope for 600 they would have atleast cleaned them (I would expect new at that price!). Could also be the ignition timing be off...seems odd though that it happened after the hard stop.

 

That probably includes them removing the fairings (Most shops charge 1hour to remove then 1hour to put back on), removing the carbs, putting carbs back on, cleaning them, replacing all the O-rings(Which will run around a $100 just for the O-rings), and new needles, springs, etc. Which I think is probably a decent price if that's the case. I just took my carbs off and brought them up to a shop.

Now when you say your rear tire shook violently. Could you tell if it was the motor, transmission, or the tire? Do you have the chain swingarm protector (Rubber peice at the top of your swingarm that prevents your chain from snatching the swingarm)? Is it torn up? If so your chain is loose. Because even when my bike lost 2 left cylinders the motor didn't shake or loose much balance. Check your oil

Does the bike Idle fine? Becuase if so I don't think it'd be your jets. Because if anything is going to clog up it will be your Idle needle first since it has the smallest orifice.

Check plugs for sure.

 

The rear tire shaking "violently" can happen if you lock up the rear tire. My bike does this occasionally if I'm braking really hard and my rear tire is in need of replacement. The rear tire is really easy to lock up when the tread is getting to the end of it's useful life.
The shop might not have put in the throttle stop enough and fell out when the bike was shaking. I have read too manyposts on here from guys saying that theshop put new tireson going against the rotation. It's an easy check which can be done without taking the bike apart at all and also doesn't require the spending of any additional money. There should be a littleknob in the opening of the left rear tail fairing. If you turn it and the idle doesn't not respond... you've found your problem. Like I said, it could have falling out when the bike was shaking. If the idle does respond, dial it in till the bike runs at 1200 rpm (49 state idle and + or - 100 RPM).

 

shoemjay- Too bad you wren't closer to NH. I have everything you need to get that bike proper.

Anyways, at 600 bux that thing shoulda been running pristine. I'm almost inclined to suggest working something out with the stealer to have this corrected at no extra charge to you.

Maybe tell them you'll bring the bike in without the fairings so they can do the job correctly with minimal interruption to the shop....

My .02