Good to know, thank you

 

just to add a quick one.. Mine hates the choke.. by that i mean as soon as it fires up i have to shut the choke off immediately or it will just cut out after a few seconds. i don't know if this is normal behaviour for F3's as with all of my past bikes i needed to keep the choke on for a few mins...especially when cold.

 

thats how mine is, i just hold the rpms at around 2-2.5k till she'll idle on her own.

 

Yea every bike with carbs is going to be a little different. Does anyone know what the "push / pull" lever by the petcock is for? If you grew up on atvs and stuff it looks like the old style chokes where you pull it out for on then push it in for off.

 

you mean the little white ended cable that is near the fuel pump?

that isnt push pull, you turn it left or right to adjust your idle speed, which you may have to do if you ride through winter and summer

right makes it idle higher
left lowers idle

i screwed mine in all the way when i first put my carbs back together idled at 8k

 

+1 on what jackojeff said.


To add to that, if you screw it too many times to the left, you will then have the joy of pulling your carbs again and look for the washer that landed probably somewhere under your starter as you will unscrew it too far. There is no stop on it to prevent you from doing that so beware. I speak from experience. :-)

 

i haven;t touched it yet. It's black though not white, good to know what it is

 

Just to be clear, this is what jackojeff and I are referencing:
Picture: Other - Long Idle Adjust Screw

 

Oh, Holy Night!! That would be a Greek tragedy right there.

There's is an instruction in how to set the idle stop up in the online shop manual. You need to follow it in order to have the idle close enough to start the bike.

When I fired mine up from the recent carb cleaning and interior tank refinishing, the idle was up around 3k. I backed it off a couple of turns and got the idle down to 1500. That idle control is pretty sensitive. I also greased the heck out of mine so it would screw in and out easily.

 

Um, yea. That was a lesson I learned after one time. :-)
I actually now have it written down somewhere how many turns it takes to totally unscrew it.
Yep, that thing is pretty sensitive as is the idle screw on the rest of the carbs. When you barely tweak one of them and you see the vacuum gauge change dramatically, it really makes you appreciate the importance of them all being the same and working as one.