New guy w/ a 1997
 

Hey All,

I just picked up a 97 CBR 600 w/ 13.8k miles on 5/8/10 and already put 1k miles on it :icon_razz: I've been cruising through the forums here seeing what after market stuff I should be doing. I've been useing this post from Krux https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3-17/faqs-frequently-asked-questions-110068/ as my guide.

I've already put a new zero gravity windscreen, fender eliminator kit, tank bra, HID high/low 5k kit, K&N air filter, new OEM brake pads and brake fluid. I have some frame sliders coming in the mail this week. If I knew this damn thing was gunna nickle and dime me to death I may not have bought it :icon_omg: But anyways.

I do have a few questions I'm sure someone can most likely help me out w/.

1 - I'm looking at changing out the engine coolant and was wondering what coolant to use and where do I add the coolant after its been drained. I didn't see a fill cap on the radiator itself so do I add the new coolant to the overfill?

2- When changing shark plugs is it better to remove the fuel tank and air intake and go through the top of the bike or to go in through the side of the bike w/ both left/right fairing removed?

3 - I really hate the look of the fender eliminator kit I put on http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=250531356594 The blinkers look like crap and the license plate light sucks. I'm wondering which one to pick up next. I want one that has a nice finished look. So which one would be better
1) http://vi.ebaydesc.com/ebaymotors/ws...=msie&caz.html

2)http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...8888&viewitem=

If I'm missing a kit that may look better please post a link.

Thx
Moses

I can answer the questions about the coolant & plugs.
To change the coolant, Honda recommends taking off the fairing so you can get to the radiator cap, pain in the arse, but, anyway refill with a good quality coolant. You may also like to give the radiator a good flush since you have gone to all that trouble.
As for the plugs, we have all thought that taking the tank off would make it easier to get to the plugs, it makes no difference. Take the lowers off to change the plugs, the access panels are a waste of time. Maybe do it while you have the fairing off for the coolant replacement. After that, its all good mate, don't know much about after market gear for them, as I keep mine stock. Congrats on the bike though, post up some pics.

water wetter + distilled water.

for the plugs just take the access panels off and use a small extension to reach down to the plugs

the tool in the tool kit (mind you the kit costs less than 15 bucks shipped on ebay) can get em out from the sides very easily.
Hell my gf did it for me

Ty Guys!

I just finished the plugs. Ty for the heads up on the tool kit on the side of the bike. That made things so much easier. After I got all the side panels off I did find the radiator cap right under the fuse box. One last thing about the coolant, where is the best spot to drain out the old coolant?

Edit: I just spoke to a guy at the Honda Dealership and he said to use Engine Ice for my coolant, is that fine?

Ty again for the help guys.
Moses

right by the pump, run lots of distilled water through it

Water Pump
Attachment 55589

I got it done. I ran 2 gallons of distilled water through the system. I just ended up tossing some of the Honda brand coolant back in. Now for the fun project making sure I mark and cut my fairings just right for my frame sliders that showed up at my door today :icon_eek:

Ty
Moses

Hey All,

Well I decided against installing the the frame sliders. The position of the sliders ended up 1/2 on and off the fairing and on a groove. I don't want to mess up and have it turn out like crap.

I do have a couple more questions on suspension settings. I found this video here http://www.sportrider.com/features/1...sag/index.html along w/ the recommended settings here http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html . On my bike the they recommend my front rebound damping to be set at " 5 clicks out ". Now when I turn the front rebound damping screw it only turns 3.25 full revolutions.

On the rear shock It says " #5 of 7 ". I can see the numbers 1 - 7 on the rear shock but I don't see any mark or dash that indicates what setting I'm currently in. In the video I linked it shows him measuring the static sag. I did a search on google and couldn't find what the front and rear static sag should be. If anyone could help me out that would be fantastic.

Ty
Moses