need new regulator/recifier? opinion plz
#1
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I think there may be something wrong with the regulator/rectifier but I want to get a second opinion.
At first, my cbr f3 won't start up. The headlights did turn on, but were dimmer than usual. So, I jump started it with my car, and I was able to get the bike started. I let the bike warm up, and then I rev'ed it a few times in neutral to get stuff flowing. After 3-5 minutes, I removed the jumper cables. Few minutes later, the bike would just turn off by itself (while I was trying to piece everything back together). I repeated this at least 3 times...
The battery was replaced 1-2 months ago.
What are your thoughts?
At first, my cbr f3 won't start up. The headlights did turn on, but were dimmer than usual. So, I jump started it with my car, and I was able to get the bike started. I let the bike warm up, and then I rev'ed it a few times in neutral to get stuff flowing. After 3-5 minutes, I removed the jumper cables. Few minutes later, the bike would just turn off by itself (while I was trying to piece everything back together). I repeated this at least 3 times...
The battery was replaced 1-2 months ago.
What are your thoughts?
#2
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Put a voltmeter across the battery with the engine off and note the voltage.
Then start the bike and rev up the motor and note the voltage.
It should be above 12 volts with the engine off and above 13 volts with the engine revved up.
Post your results here.
If you don't have a volt meter.... Go buy a cheap one (Only $3 to 10 bucks at some stores)
Then start the bike and rev up the motor and note the voltage.
It should be above 12 volts with the engine off and above 13 volts with the engine revved up.
Post your results here.
If you don't have a volt meter.... Go buy a cheap one (Only $3 to 10 bucks at some stores)
#3
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If you jump started the battery and left the bike idling, it's gonna die again if the battery is dead. Bike doesn't charge the battery at idle. Since the battery is only 2 months old, find your receipt and go back to where you bought it. They should test it and quick charge it if it's good. Or replace it if its bad.
In the manual there's a whole diag for the r/r to confirm if its bad. Just need s voltmeter
#4
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Similar problem i had with my F3 recently.
I would def check the voltage across the battery while off and on.
If only 12V when bike 4000RPM + then i would replace the reg/rec.
I got mine from http://www.regulatorrectifier.com
Hope this helps
I would def check the voltage across the battery while off and on.
If only 12V when bike 4000RPM + then i would replace the reg/rec.
I got mine from http://www.regulatorrectifier.com
Hope this helps
#5
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I had the same problem on my F3 as well. Check the ground on the pigtail connection for the r/r if that is good then either the r/r is or going bad or your stator is taking a dump. Both of mine went at the sam time so I replaced both and made sure I had a solid ground and that was the end of it. If the stator is going dont sweat it you can replace it in less than a hour yourself.
#7
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#9
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2 months later...i finally had some free time this week to work on the bike.
Voltmeter read 6-7V on my Yuasa YTX9-BS battery and i was wtf. I took the battery to a shop, got a quick 1 hr charge, and put it in my bike. Still read 6V. So I took it back to the shop and they said it had a dead cell. I ended up buying a Bikemaster BTX9-BS, installed it into my bike.
Here are the voltage readings I am getting now:
Bike Off: 12.9V
Bike Warmed Up and Idling: 12.7V
Reving from 0-8k RPM: 12.7 to 14.0V (voltage increases linearly with RPM increase)
So I think the r/r is fine. I am really happy to get back on the read last night.
I think the Yuasa battery crapped out because it was being continuously discharged (I bought that one in April). Lesson learned: maintain battery every 2 weeks or so to keep it fully charged.
Voltmeter read 6-7V on my Yuasa YTX9-BS battery and i was wtf. I took the battery to a shop, got a quick 1 hr charge, and put it in my bike. Still read 6V. So I took it back to the shop and they said it had a dead cell. I ended up buying a Bikemaster BTX9-BS, installed it into my bike.
Here are the voltage readings I am getting now:
Bike Off: 12.9V
Bike Warmed Up and Idling: 12.7V
Reving from 0-8k RPM: 12.7 to 14.0V (voltage increases linearly with RPM increase)
So I think the r/r is fine. I am really happy to get back on the read last night.
I think the Yuasa battery crapped out because it was being continuously discharged (I bought that one in April). Lesson learned: maintain battery every 2 weeks or so to keep it fully charged.
#10