Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
#1
02-09-2006, 04:04 PM
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
Okay, now that I've done the new member intro, here goes my first question for the CBR gurus out there. I think it's probably an easy one that's been asked many times before, but here goes.
My bike(96) has a manual cam chain tensioner that the previous owner put in. I just picked this bike up last week, so haven't yet delved into wrenching and tweaking on it.
Can someone advise on :
a)how do you know when the cam chain needs adjustment?
b)tips on how to adjust it properly
Thanks !
Juan
My bike(96) has a manual cam chain tensioner that the previous owner put in. I just picked this bike up last week, so haven't yet delved into wrenching and tweaking on it.
Can someone advise on :
a)how do you know when the cam chain needs adjustment?
b)tips on how to adjust it properly
Thanks !
Juan
#3
02-14-2006, 10:06 PM
RE: Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
Well you shouldn't have to adjust it very much... maybe one or twice a season I would check it. Take your right side fairing off. Loosen the lock nut and the bolt and turn the bolt in by hand until it gets tight... just a little tight not 100 ft. lbs. Then back the bolt off 1/2 to 1 turn. I believe that is how far you should back it off. A little loose will not hurt anything.
#4
02-14-2006, 10:07 PM
#5
02-15-2006, 04:07 PM
#6
02-16-2006, 09:07 PM
RE: Manual Cam Chain Tensioner
You might here a little tick coming from the cam chain if it is really loose but it shouldn't be with that manual adjusters. I would check it now since you just bought it then do it again maybe every oil change or so. Once its adjusted right the first time that cam chain does not stretch very much so it will not need much adjustment. Its not something to loose sleep over or anything.
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09-14-2009, 08:51 PM
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#9
09-23-2010, 06:36 PM
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I did this ages ago, but here's how I did it. The stock f4i cam chain tensioner wore in a weird way and created a sound like BB's in a can shaking. Supposedly, this is not dangerous but sounds like crap. The APE race people say this is a problem for racers and hotdogs, as the cam tensioner(stock hydraulic) backs out and could get out of time. Unlikely, but the stock CCT was pretty lame and replacements don't help.
I got a CCT from APE Race parts.
The issues here are:
1) You have to remove tons of crap to install it including the fuel injector rack, gas tank and airbox
2) You have to adjust it properly or you can frack up your guide rail which pushes on the cam chain. It's plastic and I have heard it can grind down and clog the oil filter and that's that if you starve your engine of oil.
You need a Clymers manual obviously.
What I did after removing the old CCT was install the new manual CCT until it I had some resistance on the guide rail. I went 1 whole turn in, finger tighten lock nut
You need to run the engine until warm to see if the CCT is correctly tightened.
Replace fuel injector rail on the intakes but no need to screw them in yet. Make sure your fuel tank was not disconnected-lay a table alongside the bike so you can lean it on that. No need to disconnect airbox from injector rail too-you are just removing this whole thing because the access is impossible if the rail and airbox is on top.
For a f4i(2002) you need 2 17mm wrenches(a star is easier)
with all the air/fuel stuff back on(but not tightened) run the bike until warm. Listen for rattling as you hold the locknut with fingers TIGHT. If you do not hear the rattle-back off the CCT locknut until it JUST STARTS to rattle(the CCT plunger will back itself out with the internal pressure). Turn Bike off.
Lift all fuel/airbox crap off the manifolds, and turn the CCT bolt in 1/2 TURN ONLY.
Turn lock nut and tighten down without moving the bolt-you need another wrench to hold bolt in place as you turn lock nut.
This is the start of adjustment. Plop fuel/airbox back on top manifolds, restart your beast.
Allow to get warm(at least 160 f) and listen for rattle. If it rattles, repeat another 1/4 turn.
If not tight, rev engine and listen for lag on the throttle. If the cam is too tight, it will lag abck down and WHINE like a SAAB TURBO when engine is hot. THIS IS BADNESS.
The engine is better off slightly loose than too tight on the cam chain for everyday use. Racers may like to blow up their engines...
You need to take this for a ride.
If the throttle and bike seems to engine brake strongly, or you hear the whine of the cam chain, go home and start backing it out 1/4 turns.
It takes hours but when dialed in, feels way snappier than the auto CCT. Of course, your mechanic should REALLY do this:-)
I got a CCT from APE Race parts.
The issues here are:
1) You have to remove tons of crap to install it including the fuel injector rack, gas tank and airbox
2) You have to adjust it properly or you can frack up your guide rail which pushes on the cam chain. It's plastic and I have heard it can grind down and clog the oil filter and that's that if you starve your engine of oil.
You need a Clymers manual obviously.
What I did after removing the old CCT was install the new manual CCT until it I had some resistance on the guide rail. I went 1 whole turn in, finger tighten lock nut
You need to run the engine until warm to see if the CCT is correctly tightened.
Replace fuel injector rail on the intakes but no need to screw them in yet. Make sure your fuel tank was not disconnected-lay a table alongside the bike so you can lean it on that. No need to disconnect airbox from injector rail too-you are just removing this whole thing because the access is impossible if the rail and airbox is on top.
For a f4i(2002) you need 2 17mm wrenches(a star is easier)
with all the air/fuel stuff back on(but not tightened) run the bike until warm. Listen for rattling as you hold the locknut with fingers TIGHT. If you do not hear the rattle-back off the CCT locknut until it JUST STARTS to rattle(the CCT plunger will back itself out with the internal pressure). Turn Bike off.
Lift all fuel/airbox crap off the manifolds, and turn the CCT bolt in 1/2 TURN ONLY.
Turn lock nut and tighten down without moving the bolt-you need another wrench to hold bolt in place as you turn lock nut.
This is the start of adjustment. Plop fuel/airbox back on top manifolds, restart your beast.
Allow to get warm(at least 160 f) and listen for rattle. If it rattles, repeat another 1/4 turn.
If not tight, rev engine and listen for lag on the throttle. If the cam is too tight, it will lag abck down and WHINE like a SAAB TURBO when engine is hot. THIS IS BADNESS.
The engine is better off slightly loose than too tight on the cam chain for everyday use. Racers may like to blow up their engines...
You need to take this for a ride.
If the throttle and bike seems to engine brake strongly, or you hear the whine of the cam chain, go home and start backing it out 1/4 turns.
It takes hours but when dialed in, feels way snappier than the auto CCT. Of course, your mechanic should REALLY do this:-)
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