Hi,

I hope someone can help me with this as I've spent most of my morning and afternoon try to fix this and I REALLY want to have the bike fixed with the good weather coming...

Last week I tried to start the bike in the normal way. The fuel pump clicked continuously - more than it usually does and when I pressed the ignition switch, all the power went on the dash. I turned the key to off and back on to on, but the power has still gone.

So far I've checked...
1. The fuses and all are fine.
2. The battery myself and at a garage and they agree with me that the battery is fine.
3. The battery connectors and they are fine.
4. The starter relay - this was pretty corroded, but I've cleaned everything and checked the fuse, and this is fine as well. I've also put a volt meter on the starter relay and this shows the same 12.6 volts as the battery.
5. The volts going to the fuel pump.

When I had the volt meter on the starter relay, I turned the ignition to on and the volts went from 12.6 to 0. Does this mean there is a short/ground somewhere, or am I missing something? Where do I go from now?

I really appreciate any help or direction on this.

Thanks

Ben

 

1. Do you have a battery tender on the bike to charge the battery today? If you let it sit for a while without riding to charge the battery, it will lose some power but say it is good but not enough to kick the motor over.
2. Does the motor turn over at all, could be a starter problem or relay.
3. If you haven't fired it up in a while, you might need to crank it for a couple minutes to get back compression to suck fuel back into carbs to the motor. I started mine last week and took me 3 minutes to get it fired up.
4. Did you check your fuel level and use a fuel stabilizer before letting it slumber? Of course, is the fuel on?

Look over these questions and let us know more about the problem.

 

Hi,

I think it's more of an electrical problem as there is no power going to the dash on the bike. Here are the answers to your questions if you can help anymore.

1. I've had it sat on trickle charge for days to get the charge back up to full. Even if it wasn't good enough, surely it would light the dash, make the horn work, etc?
2, 3. No the motor doesn't start or turn over as I can't get power to it.
4. The fuel level us fine and switched on.

Thanks

 

A crap battery can still show 12V, but there no amperage. Try hooking the bike up to your car battery (car not running) with jumpers.

 

Thanks I'll try this tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

 

Quick question did you only check the fuses in the fuse box on the right of the bike sitting on it, cause there is a main 30amp fuse. If your main fuse has blown you will find it on the left side of your bike just below your seat and right above your fuel pump. You have to take the left tail fairing off, you will then see a rubber plug that you will need to pull apart to get access to the 30-amp fuse. Hope that helps you.

 

Thanks for the idea, but I've already checked this fuse and the one in the starter relay - both are fine. Are there any others I need to check?

I've looked through the manual and think I've got them all, but may have missed one!

Thanks

 

I had the same think. I didn't checked my volts but I haven't any volts. The answer is the REGULATOR. Order one by eBay 20€ take off the right tail fairing and put it on.

 

Check the contacts to the kill switch and the start switch on the right handlebar.
If these are corroded or damaged, they can prevent power getting to where it needs to go.
Also check the connections to the ignition/gauges. Some of these may cause similar symptoms,
if not getting a good connection.

When experiencing these sort of issues, it's a good idea to systematically go through,
ALL of the harness connections and switches.

Pull/inspect the connectors, spray with contact-cleaner, pack the connector with di-electric grease,
re-connect and then move on to the next.

Look for any melted/bubbly connectors, frayed wires and pinch-points in the harness.
This should always be the next step after fuse inspection, when dealing with electrical issues.
Don't start pulling replacing components, till you've done so.

After all, if the connection is bad, it's hard for the component to do it's job.

If you find any bad connections, make a note of them.
Don't quit your harness inspection/cleaning, until you've been through the entire harness.

When you've finished inspect/testing of the entire harness, THEN,
go back and look at any components that were noted earlier.

To properly diagnose electrical issues, you must ensure that the basic 'bones'
of the system are intact and properly functioning.
Otherwise, you will be chasing 'ghosts'/symptoms forever.

Hope this helps, Ern

 

If the bike is totally dead, then there is only a couple places that can cause that. The primary location is the 30A Main Fuse on the Starter Relay Switch. I've included a photo here. Since you seem familiar with using a meter, you should be able to read 12v DC on both the Red and the Red/White wire coming out of that Red connector (the one in my hand) on the Starter Relay Switch. Check from there to the negative terminal on the battery. 12v should be present at all times whether you have the key turned on or not. If you don't have 12v, then the 30A fuse is bad.