Well..it wasnt a massive amount of oil. If they were messy when they were doing the oil change, it could be from that. Im not too worried about it at this point. If it is leaking, Leaks are fix-able. Over the winter months, i plan on doing an all out cleaning project. Take mostly everything off and clean it, lube it...If it is leaking, then would be the time to find it and fix it. Its not that much oil to worry about fixing it immediatly.

As for the regulator, i have been reading that the battery does not start charging until it is at 5000rpm or so. If this is true then it would explain why the bike stalled when the jumper battery is removed. We only revved it that high once. So the first thing i will try is charging the batterry completely overnight, the second thing i will try is a different regulator. Then the final is a stator. Now, i do believe that it should work once you charge the battery fully....we'll see though..well see...

I really want to get a "tester regulator" to "test" with though...

 

It is kinda hard to tell if the bike is too rough without pictures. If you think you can fix it for less then $500, then it is probably worth it for you because you’ll enjoy working on it. I know I like working on mine!! So just look over the bike really well so that you don’t get surprised.
I highly doubt that the crank or crank bearings have been compromised. The stator isn't attached to the crank... but the magnet is. There is a clearance between the two and if the two were in contact... I am sure you would know from the noise that would be coming from it and there would probably metal shaving being in the oil. I have crashed on the left side of my bike 5 or 6 times and I have never seen the stator cover fail to the point of where the stator and magneto come into contact.
Now for the charging issue… if the reg/rect is no longer functioning, the bike will discharge the battery to the point of where it will not run. The battery will DEAD. I would test the battery before replacing it. Charge up the battery on a charger and then take it to a shop where they can put it under a load test. I don't recall what the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) is for our batteries but be sure to know what the CCA is before you take it to a shop. The guy doing the load test will need to know this so that he can perform the test correctly and get accurate results. If the battery passes the test, then you’re going to want to refer to a post from abadfish. It gives a complete break down on how test the reg/rect. Good luck!!

http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/140473.aspx

 

Yea..the bike is in very good shape except for the stator cover. It looks great. Is it true, that if the battery is drained so far, and then the bike is jump started, it will turn off after taking the jumper cables off because it only charges at 5000rpm or more? If this is the case, the battery might just need a good charging. I have another battery at my house to see if that one works, i just gotta go pick up the bike...lol.

and yea, i love working on things. cars, bikes, anything. I built a custom turbo kit with my friend that tig welds, and i rebuilt a 1981 yamaha motorcycle from scratch last winter. Its just my passion...

 

if you jump start the bike and it dies (after taking off the jumper cables)you need to replace your reg/rec.. now because your reg/rec is bad that could also have caused damage to your battery and to your stator. so if 1 fails it affects the other 2.

 

The first rule of diagnosing an electrical problem is to make sure the battery is %100 perfect. Seems to me you just ignored it hoping it fine and blaming the rest of the things. Dont do anything untill you are sure the battery is good. try it on other bike and make sure it holds the idle, if it does you are good to go and check the rest of the stuff.
https://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf

 

Im just going with what the guy i bought it from said. "new battery"..once i get it home i will check everything in more detail.