CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

Gets a little rough at 6500 RPM

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  #11  
Old 09-24-2013 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jackojeff
so everything is working as it should carb wise? well im a little stumped with this one my next guess would be that the undertail exhaust is lowering back pressure making your engine flow quicker which would mean it needs more air or more fuel or both, i would go to a dyno any decent dyno tech will have your bike running at peak power within a few hours i had mine setup correctly for £160
Alright I rode it pretty hard today just to see what was going on and this is what I found-

If give I open up the throttle, it will start to stutter pretty much at any rpm and gear. I was starting to ride it hard in 2nd gear and it would then die and not turn back on, I had to pull over and let the bike sit for a little and then start it up again.

My neutral light doesnt come on once i've been riding the bike for about 20 minutes.

The bike also dies out, even if its in neutral, once I put the kick stand down. I dont think the bike knows its even in neutral once I start riding for a little bit.

Could it be my neutral switch? And im thinking that maybe the spark plugs aren't working properly which is making the mike stutter like that? Maybe an issue with the coils I just went to auto zone a few months ago and got some regular spark plugs and put them in. Does it need any plug in particular?
 
  #12  
Old 09-24-2013 | 09:21 PM
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If the neutral doesn't come on in neutral its a bad switch. Sputtering could be lack of or to much fuel. In 1st to 3rd you could run all the way to redline right? If so, its more than likely not the fuel pump. Which only kicks in at higher RPM if I remember right.
 
  #13  
Old 09-24-2013 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cgmiller8390
If the neutral doesn't come on in neutral its a bad switch. Sputtering could be lack of or to much fuel. In 1st to 3rd you could run all the way to redline right? If so, its more than likely not the fuel pump. Which only kicks in at higher RPM if I remember right.

I did replace the contacts on the fuel pump and it works just fine. and I cant go to red line in any gear at all. I thought I could but tested it out today and it will eventually just die out

*Im going to gravity feed the bike and see what happens
 
  #14  
Old 09-25-2013 | 04:37 AM
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no DO NOT gravity feed all you have to do is connect your fuel pump up to your battery if it makes a noise then it works it, should hum.

the neutral switch is probably faulty or dirty try taking it off and cleaning it if that doesn't work check the wiring and the finally replace the switch if all else fails.

tbh sounds a little like you have a faulty side stand maybe either replace it or take the outer 2 wires and connect them together i soldered mine as i wrecked my side stand jumping a hump back bridge at a silly speed, mine used to stop then wouldnt start again until i moved the sidestand up and down a few times.

check those 2 things then get back to us will probably still run like trash but thats what you get when you play with the jetting but fix the electrical issues first then take it to a dyno, fixing the electronics may fix your running issue weirder things have happened.

change your plugs you want NGK CR9EH-9 or CR9EHIX-9 i dont know the code for the laser iridium ones, the CR9EH-9 are standard plugs and CR9EHIX-9 are IX iridium plugs. make sure you get the EH or for denso its IUH27 the H is for half thread.
 

Last edited by jackojeff; 09-25-2013 at 04:41 AM.
  #15  
Old 09-25-2013 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jackojeff
no DO NOT gravity feed all you have to do is connect your fuel pump up to your battery if it makes a noise then it works it, should hum.

the neutral switch is probably faulty or dirty try taking it off and cleaning it if that doesn't work check the wiring and the finally replace the switch if all else fails.

tbh sounds a little like you have a faulty side stand maybe either replace it or take the outer 2 wires and connect them together i soldered mine as i wrecked my side stand jumping a hump back bridge at a silly speed, mine used to stop then wouldnt start again until i moved the sidestand up and down a few times.

check those 2 things then get back to us will probably still run like trash but thats what you get when you play with the jetting but fix the electrical issues first then take it to a dyno, fixing the electronics may fix your running issue weirder things have happened.

change your plugs you want NGK CR9EH-9 or CR9EHIX-9 i dont know the code for the laser iridium ones, the CR9EH-9 are standard plugs and CR9EHIX-9 are IX iridium plugs. make sure you get the EH or for denso its IUH27 the H is for half thread.
Alright im going to check those plugs. I know my fuel pump works cause I tested it after I put the new contacts in and when I ride, I feel the back of the fuel pump and I do hear it click ever 5 seconds are so but I dont know if its putting enough fuel out. The bike also doesnt start without the choke at all. The choke HAS to be closed for it to even start and then I have to wait about 30 seconds before I put the choke back to normal
 
  #16  
Old 09-26-2013 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JLAvila
Alright im going to check those plugs. I know my fuel pump works cause I tested it after I put the new contacts in and when I ride, I feel the back of the fuel pump and I do hear it click ever 5 seconds are so but I dont know if its putting enough fuel out. The bike also doesnt start without the choke at all. The choke HAS to be closed for it to even start and then I have to wait about 30 seconds before I put the choke back to normal
yeah bikes running too rich usually wont start without choke i know my hornet wouldnt until i changed the air filter as that hadnt been changed since 2005 (i got the bike 2012 and changed air filter 2013)

check your air filter and maybe change that along with plugs then get it dyno'd

i see alot of people on here and in paddocks trying to work out the jetting by guessing its a waste of time unless you have a wideband sensor and some knowledge of what does what i.e. moving the pin up and down and putting bigger jets in. and lets put it this way my motor had stock exhaust a really good gas flow and i changed the exhaust cam to an inlet putting 102 at the wheel my friend he has a gas flow he did by himself an inlet on the exhaust camshaft +2 ignition advancer and a full micron exhaust system and i have so much more power than him i can pass him like he is stood still because he 1 did his own gas flow and 2 did his own jetting
 
  #17  
Old 09-26-2013 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jackojeff
yeah bikes running too rich usually wont start without choke i know my hornet wouldnt until i changed the air filter as that hadnt been changed since 2005 (i got the bike 2012 and changed air filter 2013)

check your air filter and maybe change that along with plugs then get it dyno'd

i see alot of people on here and in paddocks trying to work out the jetting by guessing its a waste of time unless you have a wideband sensor and some knowledge of what does what i.e. moving the pin up and down and putting bigger jets in. and lets put it this way my motor had stock exhaust a really good gas flow and i changed the exhaust cam to an inlet putting 102 at the wheel my friend he has a gas flow he did by himself an inlet on the exhaust camshaft +2 ignition advancer and a full micron exhaust system and i have so much more power than him i can pass him like he is stood still because he 1 did his own gas flow and 2 did his own jetting
I just cleaned out and replaced the K&N air filter as well and I noticed that it does backfire slightly when I let off the gas. I will play with the pilot screw, should I unscrew it or screw it in? right now its screwed out 2.5. The bike runs good when I rev it up slow but once I punch it, it stutters so Im ganna take it all apart again and check all the plugs and just ganna keep the stock jets in
 
  #18  
Old 09-27-2013 | 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JLAvila
I just cleaned out and replaced the K&N air filter as well and I noticed that it does backfire slightly when I let off the gas. I will play with the pilot screw, should I unscrew it or screw it in? right now its screwed out 2.5. The bike runs good when I rev it up slow but once I punch it, it stutters so Im ganna take it all apart again and check all the plugs and just ganna keep the stock jets in
erm i thought standard was 1.5 turns out and with exhaust system 1.75 try and see how it runs at 2.0 turns out and if the issue gets worse turn it 3 turns out and see which is better i still think a pro is much quicker and does less damage to your motor than guess work

and by the screws i do mean the 4 that are on the bottom of the carbs not the idle screw
 
  #19  
Old 09-27-2013 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jackojeff
erm i thought standard was 1.5 turns out and with exhaust system 1.75 try and see how it runs at 2.0 turns out and if the issue gets worse turn it 3 turns out and see which is better i still think a pro is much quicker and does less damage to your motor than guess work

and by the screws i do mean the 4 that are on the bottom of the carbs not the idle screw
The plugs showed that it's a little lean like you said. I'm ganna add bigger jets as well then get it dyno'ed. Service here cost 380 for a carb rebuild and 60 dollars to dyno and sniff so in ganna do that after I get it running right.

Alright so this is what I've done thus far-
- Changed the jets 1/4- from 134's to 140's and then 2/3 from 138's to 145's
- Spark plugs all work perfectly and are the same ones as factory
- Changed the other jets from 40's to 42's.
- The pilot jet is screwed out 2.5 turns

Now what is happening, I started the bike up perfectly after and it ran very well for about 10 minutes while the bike was still warming up and I mean perfect. Reved up with no hesitation and rpms came down nice and quick and then I got on the highway and it ran very well in low range rpms, now its still bogging out at higher rpms; definitely not as bad as it was before but still happening when I give it open it up quick and then once it starts to bog out, it sounds like the bike will just shut off cause its happened before.

The plugs were a little white so after I put the new jets in, the bike was running rich(er). I can smell and see some gas coming out of the exhaust and it started up great.

NOW THE OTHER ISSUE---
After riding for about 20 minutes I turned it off and then tried turning it back on and it wont start up! NOTHING AT ALL. Then I would open the choke and it would start and then die quick.I dont know if I flooded the engine or not but its either getting too much fuel or not enough. Ganna play with the pilot screw and make it leaner. Im ganna try 2 turns out first.

Could it be my wiring harness? I also just put a new rectifier in but the wiring harness connects were a little burnt, dont think that would do it though as the bike is still holding a charge.

I think I need to play with the pilot screw a little and maybe put it at 2 turns out and see what happens.

I also think I need to check the needle and see what shim its at.

If all that doesn't work, Im ganna throw the bike in the river

Lets hope for the best
 

Last edited by JLAvila; 09-28-2013 at 01:07 AM.
  #20  
Old 09-28-2013 | 10:54 PM
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Alright finally got it all figured out!

Heres what happened-
- The engine was worked on by the previous owner. I am assuming that he bored it over.
-The jets that were in the bike were 134's and 136's so I bought a carb kit and put that in. It was 140's and 145's. I was a little skeptical about the 145's cause it was such a big difference and I was right. It ended up happening that the jet was too big because the same problem was happening. First time wasn't enough fuel, second time was too much fuel. So what I ended up doing was putting the 140's in the middle and 136's on the outside and then turned the pilot screw out 2.25 turns.

Anyway after all that work and mystery from what the other owner did, finally got the jetting right.

Thanks for all your help jackojeff
 


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