CBR 600F3 1995 - 1998 CBR 600F3 Forum

fuel pump help needed from the experts.????

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Old 08-21-2009, 04:12 PM
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Question fuel pump help needed from the experts.????

hello to all

my 97 cbr 600 f3 seems to be having fuel issues
i need to know if any body have a diagnostic chart or web link to troubleshoot fuel cut off relay/fuel pump. i have 12 volts going to the relay ground is good when i start the bike first off it takes a while to start it when it sits for a while.ok back to the business when i get the bike sarted and i check the voltage at the blue/yellow wire at the fuel pump conector it only shows 7.23 volts to 8.36 volts when i give it a little throttle and i know the fuel pump needs 12 volts.????
 
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:21 PM
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What's it show on the relay side before and after the relay?
 
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnyx
What's it show on the relay side before and after the relay?
ok on the relay plug the middle wire=black/white i have 12+ volts with key on and when running too. actually running it goes up to charging voltage when i rev the engine=normal on the blue/yellow wire it shows 11.30 volts no matter what rpm it is in even at 5000rpm charging =14.50 volts that terminal still shows 11.30 volts and down to 8 volts at the fuel pump plug
 

Last edited by 1iwilly; 08-21-2009 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 08-21-2009, 05:40 PM
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The voltages you're reading are accurate. You won't see a voltage drop across the relay like you would see on a normal relay. If you trace the Bu/Y wire back to it's source, you'll see that it's also tied to one of the Ignition Coils. That signal goes from 12v down to 0v each time the spark plugs on that coil are supposed to fire. During that momentary 0v period, the Fuel Cut Relay turns on and the pump runs. Your meter is not fast enough to respond to this on/off cycle. As you rev the engine, the amount of time between 12v to 0v to 12v (and so on) each time the plug fires becomes less and less, so you meter is reading a higher and higher average voltage. If your meter has the ability to measure Hz, then you'd be able to see a clock cycle on that wire that is directly proportional to the engine RPM (kinda like your tachometer).

If you're having fuel pump related issues, it's probably the pump, not the relay. Someone here has taken the black plastic coverr off and cleaned contact on the pump stator. They claimed that fixed their pump problems. Most people on this board however have just bit the bullet and replaced the pump with a new one from Honda. They run about $110.
 
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Old 08-21-2009, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by idodirt
The voltages you're reading are accurate. You won't see a voltage drop across the relay like you would see on a normal relay. If you trace the Bu/Y wire back to it's source, you'll see that it's also tied to one of the Ignition Coils. That signal goes from 12v down to 0v each time the spark plugs on that coil are supposed to fire. During that momentary 0v period, the Fuel Cut Relay turns on and the pump runs. Your meter is not fast enough to respond to this on/off cycle. As you rev the engine, the amount of time between 12v to 0v to 12v (and so on) each time the plug fires becomes less and less, so you meter is reading a higher and higher average voltage. If your meter has the ability to measure Hz, then you'd be able to see a clock cycle on that wire that is directly proportional to the engine RPM (kinda like your tachometer).

If you're having fuel pump related issues, it's probably the pump, not the relay. Someone here has taken the black plastic coverr off and cleaned contact on the pump stator. They claimed that fixed their pump problems. Most people on this board however have just bit the bullet and replaced the pump with a new one from Honda. They run about $110.
at idle i can rev the engine all the way to red line with out missing a beat no coughfin or spurtering
the minute i start driving the bike shift to second gear the bike starts to like choke and bog and then while i have the throttle mid way the bike goes into like a off and on situation picks up speed for a blink of an eye then it bog down like if i was turning the ignition key off and on weird
 
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Old 08-22-2009, 04:41 PM
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That's classic symptoms. You can bypass the fuel pump temporarily to check if it's a fuel problem. Connect a hose from the tank to the carbs and take it for a ride. If it runs ok, then I'd replace the pump.
 
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by idodirt
That's classic symptoms. You can bypass the fuel pump temporarily to check if it's a fuel problem. Connect a hose from the tank to the carbs and take it for a ride. If it runs ok, then I'd replace the pump.

thanks to all who reply i by pass the fuel pump it did run with no bogging or stubbling or shutting off i did notice for the time that i had the bike running less than 5 minutes the fuel pump was hot as hell
so know i'm in search for a new pump
 
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 1iwilly
thanks to all who reply i by pass the fuel pump it did run with no bogging or stubbling or shutting off i did notice for the time that i had the bike running less than 5 minutes the fuel pump was hot as hell
so know i'm in search for a new pump
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CBR60...#ht_500wt_1035

If you want to try a used one.
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:35 PM
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would it be ok to run the bike with out the fuel pump for now until i get the money to buy it new as i don't want to waste half the money on ebay for a use one i rather go new on something like that critical.i've read that it would only effect my top end anything over 100.00mph??
 
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:14 PM
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clean the contacts on the pump first
 


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