Hi guys!

2 weeks ago I got my first bike ( yay! ) it's a '95 F3.

Because I don't know the bikes history and because I want to learn how to maintain my bike I've decided to to start with some maintenance. I did a lot of car maintenance in the past and i'm a quick learner. Any help would be appreciated.

What I've done so far:
- Change oil + oil filter
- Replace cam chain tensioner with APE's manual one ( bike was ticking before, now it's a lot less but still there )
- Degrease, clean and lubricate the chain
- Check brake oil
- Overall check of the bike

My Questions:

1. Drivechain tensioner:
While lubricating the drivechain I also took a look at how to tension it for when that time comes. I noticed that the left tensioner in the swingarm was broken. It did not have the 'cover' and the thread is broken of. I found a new set online and ordered them.

At this moment the wheel & chain are now hold in place by just the axle nut and the righ tensioner. I am planning on replacing the broken tensioner when it's time for new sprockets and a new chain. Do you reckon it save to ride without one of the tensioners? I think the axle-nuts holds all load and the tensioners are only used for tensioning but i'm not sure.

Also, I think the tensioners will come out when the axle and wheel is out, or is there more to it to take them out? I can then consider by doing this in a shop instead of myself.

2. Brake-Pads:
I want to replace the brake pads somewhere this week. In the manual it says you can leave the caliper on, but this seems 'hard' to pull back the pistons and fit in the new pads while the caliper is still attached to the bike. Is it okay to remove the caliper to do this job? Or is there a good reason to leave the calipers attached ( for exmple is there enough space in the rim to take the caliper of )? Thanks!

3. Front-fork / front-wheel axle:
While cleaning my front-rim I noticed that the front axle only has one nut. On the left side of the bike the axle stick out a little and there's two holes in the axle. ( See attached pic ). It looks like something is missing, like a pin? In the manual I don't read anything about the holes. Can you guys tell me if there should be somthing in those holes?

front-axle4. Cold start:
The bike starts and runs good. When it's a cold start ( starting it after a cold night or some days ) I use the choke to start it. The bike starts a bit harder when it's cold. It will start, then idle a few second and die. After 3/4 times doing this it will keep running and I need to play with the throttle to keep it alive. After 20 - 30 sec it will idle like normal ( +-1200 rpm's ) and i can close the choke and don't need to play with the throttle anymore.

Any idea's why it starts a bit rough at the cold start? I thought the choke was designed to solve this problem. Googling the problem makes me believe I should clean & sync the carbs, but because of my lack of experience I think this job is a bit too hard for me and I should get that done at a shop.

5. Any more tips:
Please let me know if you have more advice or things I should check!

Thanks forum

 

No...I'd not ride the bike until the chain tensioners are good. The consequences of the axle slipping and loosening the chain are too dire.

To do anything with the rear wheel, the axle will have to come out. Not a big deal.

Brake pads...check the manual. Swapping pads is a 15 minute job.

Service Manual: 1996-1998 Honda CBR600F3 Service Manual, Moto Data Project (Link says '96 to '98, ignore that. This is your manual.)

My '91 F2 is a bit finicky in cold weather too, but Hey! Carburetors! If it'll run pretty much on its own after 30 seconds, I can't see any issue.

Other concerns? Seems most riders ignore their cooling system. Bad idea (really bad) with aluminum engines. Flush well, add some cooling system flush and run it for a few hours (you can even use straight white vinegar, but you'll need to flush that out with water and flush again with a water and baking soda mix to neutralize the acetic acid, then flush that stuff out a few times). No need to dilute the vinegar...it's already mostly water. I also blast out the coolant reservoir with water and suck it dry with a wet/dry vacuum that has a tube attachment that fits into the opening. And...with the radiator hose disconnected at the water pump, I use a compressor & air nozzle at the radiator opening to try and blow out all the water I can before refilling. Once well flushed and drained, refill with an antifreeze designed for aluminum engines...either the Honda brand coolant, or (this is what I use) Valvoline Asian Vehicle Antifreeze (auto parts stores carry it too).

Always buy the 50/50 mix. The water used in these mixes is de-mineralized and deionized and 100x better than tap water or even distilled water. An F3 should take close to a full gallon (IIRC).

 

Hi EchoWars,

Thanks for your quick reply! I'll make sure to replace the broken drivechain tensioner asap. Thanks for the advice on the coolant flush, I will make some time for that after the tensioner is fixed.

Thanks again, enjoy you Sunday!

 

+1 on everything EchoWars said. Also, I would suggest flushing out the old brake fluid putting in some new. It's an easy, inexpensive task and covered well in the manual. When you're done with that and replacing the pads as you mentioned, you will have confidence that your braking system is GTG.

 

 

Thanks for all the advice guys!

 

I'm riding a 96 F3. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump points. I also turn my idle up 1/2 to 3/4's of a turn when cold starting then turn it back when it warms.

Safe riding

 

Welcome....

My 98 F3 doesnt like cold starts either ...... I set the choke about 3/4 on and let her idle for while till the revs go up to around 3K then half choke for a few miles.

Id also flush the coolant system out and add new coolant. Use EchoWars guide its pretty comprehensive.

Spark plugs too but make sure they aint counterfeit like the last set i got of fleebay.

Certainly wouldn't run it without the tensioner........ unless you just mean that the tesioner scew is missing? if the main body is there (the spacer bit that goes into the swinging arm box section) then it will be OK as long as the main axle is tightened up. If you have the new parts on order though new tensioners and chain and sprocket set then you may as well wait and fit it all together.

They are great bikes so keep at it as really worth the time you spend getting them sorted.

Keep the rubber side down buddy.

 

Only thing I'd mention here is that you really want to get it off the choke as soon as possible. On a cold engine, the fuel mixture gets by the rings comparatively easily. Positive crankcase ventilation is designed to help remove some of the fuel that gets to the oil once the engine reaches operating temp. Once at temp, a portion of the vaporized fuel can be routed to the air box and filtered & burned, but any time fuel mixes with your motor oil the efficacy of that oil is reduced.

 

-> That part is still in the swingarm, and the axle is going through it. It's the tensioners back-cover and nut thats missing. Because the nut and the back-cover is the only thing that holds spacer into place ( apart from the axle nut ) I guess it's not safe to ride. I found a new set and they should arrive tomorrow! I hope the remaining spacer part will come out easily. The chain and sprocket still look okay-ish to me. Because i'm not feeling comfortable re-installing the back wheel on my own I figured I might aswell bring it to a shop for fresh sprockets and a chain and ask them to swap the tensioner when they're at it. Just feels like a shame to do it straight away as my sprockets and chain still look okay. But hey, safety is more important so I'll just get it done.

Thanks again ( everyone! ) for the advice on the maintenance and cold-starts !