ok so im sure this has been talked about but i cant quit find a post that tells you exactly what is needed to do so, im picking up my gauges today and want to know eactly what needs done to make them properly work/function, not worried about mounting, honestly think that will be the easiest, thanks

 

No time right now to answer this post in depth. I'll get back to you this afternoon
with the results of my recent experience with this mod.

Ern

 

Thanks man, you where the one I wanted to talk to lol, I like how you did the mesh thing to fill it behind the gauges

 

Hey man, i did the mod on my bike not too long ago. pretty straight forward.

There are a lot of tutorials on this topic, you can try googling them if you wish. I will try and sum it up for you through.

If you are not converting the front end to an F4i (as in the stay bar) you will need to make some sort of harness to mount the new gauge assembly to your old stay bar.
There is conversion hardware out there made out of acrylic... or you can make one yourself. I did the full f4i front end conversion so my gauges just bolted right on the stay bar.

Second, you want to find some wire harness that matches the f4i harness. I found one at my local electronics hardware store. Of course, depending on your access to this kind of store, you may be out of luck. I initially screwed this part up. I found a harness after i snipped all my wires on both my wire harness and the gauge pod.

I ended up going with a large 24 pin adapter i found at said hardware store. You can source them out. I chose to go with an adapter rather than just joining the f3 and f4i wires together. I knew i would perform maintenance and would then have more work to do without a harness.

I found a connections guide that shows you which wires to to which wires f3 -> f4i and taped them together so i could organize the harness.

You also need to run a dedicated 12v line from your battery to the gauge pod. Ok, you don't HAVE to, but you have a running clock on the gauges... if you don't care about a clock, forget about the 12v line, otherwise it will reset itself every time you turn the bike off.

Once you have all your wires matched up, strip and connect in whatever fashion you choose. Some wires are not used on the f4i gauge pod. The F1 light is commonly used as your kickstand light.

Another note is that your temp sensor will need to be upgraded, otherwise it will not report a proper temp to the gauges. You need to find a 900RR temp sensor and install it in your F3.

I have yet to do that, so my temp always reads 270. There are inline temp sensors people have also installed... these go to 3rd party temp gauges that people then install. Google them too to get more details.

So, the basics of what you need:

Wire snippers / strippers
Some male/female adapter (optional, you could always twist your wires together)

if you can find this, it will match up with the f4i wire harness

Check out my post on this process

12v dedicated line from the batter for your gauge clock (optional)
Electrical tape
F3 -> F4i wire guide (http://www.omninate.com/cbr600f3/f4i-gauge-wiring.gif - nevermind the middle row)
F3 -> F4i gauge mounting adapter (not sure about this one)
Time (about 3 hours to make sure it's bullet proof)

Anyhow, good luck, its not as hard as it seems. Just take your time, do one wire at a time. But if your not going to do the full f4i conversion, figure out how to mount the gauge pod first. that will save you a bunch of time.

Cheers,
Nick

 

+1 to Nick for the above post.

OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha

Gotcbr turned me on to this website, that's where I got my harness connectors.
I crimped and soldered all of the pins on the ends of the harness wires then
plugged the empty end into the guages connector. That made it simple matching
the wires up from the conversion chart. Just poked them into their matching
spot on the new connector. Clean, stock look and maintenance dis-assembly
is a snap.

I took the old mount trim and trimmed off the bezel-rim. Made a new mount for the guages out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate cut to match the mount trim. Added brackets to carry the whole thing in the same space as the old trim (so it would match up to the fairing and look 'stock'-ish). At first I was going to cut a piece of stainless to fill/flush
the old cut-out. but then thought of the mesh-idea, recessed like you see.

A LOT of bondo and glazing compound later, lol. The wiring really was the easy part for me. Just added a smoked touring wind shield that adds 3 inches of rise. With that
being translucent, I'm glad I opted for the clean look and retained the old mount housing.

Ern

 

what year 900rr?

 

98-99 900rr for the temp sensor. it is on the right side by the choke cable-mount.
Little bitty thing. Be sure and hose the old one with break-free and walk away for
10-15 min, first. A lot of folks snap the old one off removing it, if they don't.
Also use a little teflon tape on the threads to prevent coolant leaks.

Ern

 

I still have to get my sensor. I will do it in the fall when i decide to work on my carbs. I just put in new coolant, im not worried about overheating at this point.

Nice link to the OEM connectors MadHattr059.

 

The link is from Gotcbr, he hooked me up, I'm just passing the karma along.

:-) Ern

 

Thanks guys, with work though just too busy to really. Really mess with it right now, and not to mention still can't get the damn thing runnin