Carbs cleaned and re-installed and wow what a difference to the acceleration and smoothness of the rev range! however i still have the same issues, fuel smell and popping from the exhaust at idle and deceleration. Will a crab sync help iron this out?

However, my stuck pilot screw isn't leaving the carbs. Would i be able to richen the mix on 3 of the carbs and leave this stuck carb as it is which i believe is factory 2 turns out.Or would that cause more issues than it would solve?

 

I believe your latter statement is the true one. You are correct, 2 full turns is the factory default, but that is more of a good starting point. if you read the factory service manual, it tells you to adjust each pilot, one at a time until RPM's no longer increase, then back each down by 50 RPM's.
So, you really, really need to get tat last pilot unstuck. I can't say that I've even seen a stuck pilot screw. Jet's tons of times but not a pilot screw. I'd soak it in some carb cleaner to see if that will help. You will need to replace the o-ring but without that circuit being totally clean, your bike will never be right.
Finally syncing the carbs is something that I always suggest. It needs to be done prior to adjusting the pilot circuits.
The steps are:
1. Clean
2. Sync
3. Adjust pilot circuit
4. Enjoy a finally tuned machine

 

Well, to be totally right you need to check the valve adjustments before you do these things. That is he ultimate controller of air flow into the engine, and thus affects carb sync. Checking the gaps is not hard, and if they're ok, then you know its good to go. If they're not, then at least you're not trying to sync carbs to a bad valve adjustment.

I'm just saying...

 

^^True Dat^^
I was offering help with the assumption the valves were good.

 

Hmm il leave it for now until I have some more free time when I'm not needing the bike so much (only mode of Transport) a spare set to of carbs in 90 English dollars off eBay, reckon it's worth a punt if I want to really tune my bike

 

do yourself a favour and check what colour your exhaust tip is. if its black its rich, if its white its lean. or better yet its around £30 for a base run on a dyno will tell you your power output and air to fuel ratio best £30 you will spend

get rid of the K&N and buy the standard honda kit the bike runs better

i was running rich as standard with standard jets i then gas flowed the head, installed a full akra race system, re-programmable CDI, and modified to the HRC manual and it was still running rich without an air filter it made 93bhp standard around 100bhp after the mods and with the jetting leaned out and ignition timing setup correctly it made just shy of 110bhp

the little screws under your carbs are only for idle so wont be causing an issue

 

110 is a tall order! How do you mean it leaned out with the jetting? Did you use smaller jets that standard?

My spark plugs on carb 1 & 4 are a grey colour, haven't gotten round to checking 2 & 3 yet.. I get popping upon deceleration.. However have black soot forming around my removable baffle in the exhaust and she smells like she is running rich, especially when riding two up. So am I rich or am I lean??!!?? Boo

Is it worth replacing all my float needles? I bought a second hand set of carbs to re condition to maybe help me work on a fix whilst still having the bike on the road

Tis really annoying as I have a full two bros exhaust waiting to be put on and a +4 ignition advancer, then I want to really start getting into jets and shimming the needles.