Does your F2 or F3 need work?
 

Was thinking about making some extra money over the winter for next seasons track days and racing. What better than to work on other people bikes. I've built 2 complete bikes from the ground up. One being my current race/track bike. Rebuilt 3 engines and don't remember how many forks I've done. You can bring the parts or I can get the parts and do the work for you.

Here some background about my 96 F3 that's anything but stock. I've done all the work myself. The only thing sent out was to have the bores cut 2mm over and lighten and balance the crankshaft. Here's a list of the just the engine mods.

2mm over bored pistons (67mm wisco pistons)
Lightened and balanced crankshaft (1 lbs lighter)
Port and polished cylinder head
HRC race camshafts and degreed for best power output
4 degree ignition advance
adjustable cam gears
Factory Pro Race Jet Kit
EBC race clutch kit
Factory Pro case covers (ignition & stator)

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To help lighten up the bike some more. All the steel spacers and mounting plate are now T6061 aluminum.

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The suspension was the first thing I ever did to the bike. Way before anything was ever done to the motor. After the engine mods to help control the new power and response was reworked again. Front forks alone get rebuilt 1 to 2 times a year at least. Here's a breakdown of the work in the front forks.

Sonic springs 1.10 kg
Racetech G2-R Gold Valve Kit (compression)
Racetech Rebound HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing
Silkolene Synthetic Racing Fork Oil


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Hi

I'm building a track bike and need some extra wheels for wets. Do you happen to know which front wheels fit from other models to give me more options to source on eBay?

Was also wondering what ride height adjustments you made?

Also I'm fascinated by the crank - looks like you took a lot of material from the balance webs. How did you get it to balance? Was thinking they need to balance the rods/pistons and weight would be taken from the flywheel.

I can't remember what year range but some of the vfr's use the same front wheel.

The front forks are 10mm higher than stock. I'll have to measure the rear shock.

The crank was 1 of the 2 things I had to send out to have the work done. It was sent to APE on the east coast. I'm still running the complete charging system. I did save some more weight by switching to a lithium battery.

Stock Battery 7-8 lbs
Lithium 1.5 lbs

When I get home I'll upload some more pictures.

I would love to hear your comparison of the stock F3 versus this beast you have built. Also wondering what weight you have the track bike down to and if you got any dyno numbers for it before, after. Wish I lived closer to you I have had nothing but horrible experiences with all local mechanics and trust no one but myself And it seems every time i get a chance to work on it, the dirt bike calls my name. I have got to give the cbr some love this winter.

Mine is a standard engine tune but the bike has been stripped of all unnecessary road stuff and it really loses a lot of weight. I must try and weigh it one day. It has race bodywork and I reckon it lost 30-40Kg in total.

im having trouble trying to remove Cylinder Head what do i need to do

Another good crank company is Falicon Cranks, google them. They are located in Clearwater Fl. & their work is 2nd to none. I had one of their Super Cranks done on a F3 & it came back with a mirror finish. That thing spun up so fast, it was amazing. What pistons are you running in there? Any rods?

I'm running wiseco pistons. Going to get new rods when I do the next refresh. Using stock rods right now.

No joke about how fast the F3 can spin up with a lighten crank.

I'm installing Race Tech gold valves and rebound valves in my forks as we speak. In addition, I'm revalving the shock. So at the moment, my F3 is in the attic. I have to split the case open because there is a leak between the cases and second gear is slipping when accelerating.
Your balancing the crank has REALLY caught my attention. Well that and the aluminum spaces and hangers you fabricated. By the way, I'm in need of fabing a new base plate for the RR. I've rebuilt my wire harness so that it can take a RR from a 2008 R1. My problem is the base plate for the old RR is WAY too small and won't be able to bolt on the new R1 RR. Seeing how you fabed the hangers and you're offering to fab the spacers, you think you could make a larger base plate for my new R1 RR?
Back to the crank... maybe I should look into while I have the case opened up. How much did that run you?

Crank Services/ Falicon Crankshaft Components, Inc. 727.797.2468
APE Race Cranks...
Falicon may be more expensive but their work is phenominal.