chain/sprocket conversion
what exactly does a conversion consist of? is there anything special that needs to be taken into consideration? or am i overthinking it? im looking to get a red chain listed for an f3 (mine is a 96) but this company only lists for 97-98. i know mine is supposed to be a 530, and the 97-98 is a 525. is it all i have to do is buy 525 sprockets and chain for a 97-98 and call it a day? or are shims or something required?
and has anyone used a vortex cat5 before? is it worth 60 bucks for a colored aluminium sprocket?
and has anyone used a vortex cat5 before? is it worth 60 bucks for a colored aluminium sprocket?
Last edited by IDoDirt; Oct 13, 2011 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Double Post
The idea behind the conversion is to change your bike from using a 530 chain and sprockets to a 520 series. This reduces the amount of weight or mass that your engine has to move. Another part of the change is substituting an aluminum alloy rear sprocket for the steel sprocket, further reducing the amount of weight. The draw back of the alloy rear sprocket is that aluminum is softer than the steel, and subsequently wears faster. This wear is magnified if you're an aggressive rider.
Considerations should also be taken into account if you're going to change the number of teeth on either one or both of the sprockets. The stock bike, 95-98 takes a chain that is 108 links in length. It can accommodate some small changes in the number of teeth on your sprockets without you having to change the number of links in the chain. Larger rear sprockets could create the need for a longer chain. There is a limited amount of adjustment that your rear axle has in it's front to rear movement to get the proper amount of slack. If you don't have the right combination of chain length and sprockets, you may find that you're unable to properly adjust the chain. I'd suggest that if you're making changes to the number of teeth on your sprockets, then mock up your wheels and sprockets on the bike and make sure you're able to get the chain situated properly before you cut it. Once you cut it, it's going to be a little tough to undo it if you need it longer.
There are many people here on this site who've made all kinds of sprocket/chain modifications and can tell you what their experience has been. I personally haven't changed teeth on my bikes, so I don't have personal knowledge of what has to be done for any specific combination.
I think switching from a 530 to a 525 is a no brainer. If it was good enough for Honda, it's good enough for me. Yes, it's as simple as purchasing the 525 sprockets and chain and putting it on. Nothing needs to be done for them to fit. I'm currently running EK Chain's on all 3 of my CBR's and AFAM steel sprockets. I have red on my F3 and Purple on my wifes F3. With proper maintenance they will last a long time. My wife has nearly 30K on hers and barely shows any wear. True, she's not aggressive in her riding, but none the less. Vortex makes a good product, and I'm sure you'd be happy with your purchase if you should decide to go that route. I've also seen a combination Steel/Alloy rear sprocket from SuperSprox. It's really cool looking and gives the best of both worlds, lighter weight, but strong teeth. They are pricy though.
Good luck in your search.
Considerations should also be taken into account if you're going to change the number of teeth on either one or both of the sprockets. The stock bike, 95-98 takes a chain that is 108 links in length. It can accommodate some small changes in the number of teeth on your sprockets without you having to change the number of links in the chain. Larger rear sprockets could create the need for a longer chain. There is a limited amount of adjustment that your rear axle has in it's front to rear movement to get the proper amount of slack. If you don't have the right combination of chain length and sprockets, you may find that you're unable to properly adjust the chain. I'd suggest that if you're making changes to the number of teeth on your sprockets, then mock up your wheels and sprockets on the bike and make sure you're able to get the chain situated properly before you cut it. Once you cut it, it's going to be a little tough to undo it if you need it longer.
There are many people here on this site who've made all kinds of sprocket/chain modifications and can tell you what their experience has been. I personally haven't changed teeth on my bikes, so I don't have personal knowledge of what has to be done for any specific combination.
I think switching from a 530 to a 525 is a no brainer. If it was good enough for Honda, it's good enough for me. Yes, it's as simple as purchasing the 525 sprockets and chain and putting it on. Nothing needs to be done for them to fit. I'm currently running EK Chain's on all 3 of my CBR's and AFAM steel sprockets. I have red on my F3 and Purple on my wifes F3. With proper maintenance they will last a long time. My wife has nearly 30K on hers and barely shows any wear. True, she's not aggressive in her riding, but none the less. Vortex makes a good product, and I'm sure you'd be happy with your purchase if you should decide to go that route. I've also seen a combination Steel/Alloy rear sprocket from SuperSprox. It's really cool looking and gives the best of both worlds, lighter weight, but strong teeth. They are pricy though.
Good luck in your search.
"And there you have it folks, another home run!", +1 to IDoDirt
In the street world, stock gearing is the way to go.
Good aceleration but still has legs to travel distance.
Only reason to change is if you are a "specialist" of
one extreme or the other.
Ern
In the street world, stock gearing is the way to go.
Good aceleration but still has legs to travel distance.
Only reason to change is if you are a "specialist" of
one extreme or the other.
Ern
I had pm'ed dirt so the full story from what i asked him, to what i had posted here are not the same..But for the first time i did a tooth count to see what the PO had put on. And it is +1+2. which is not a common route i have heard of people switching to. I was also saying how getting the transition from stop into first has never been quite an easy thing to do on a regular, thinking the clutch may be slipping, but now im thinking its from the gearing. Any insight to the thought process the PO may have had to select this gearing?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




