CCT or something worse
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Recently when riding my bike, I noticed that periodically the oil light would come on when I came to a stop. I had always meant to check it when I get it back home but since the light never stayed on, it was out of site out of mind. Well, finally when going about 115 on the highway, the bike started to lose power then I heard this "ticking" noise. I pulled off and finally checked the oil (which I had changed about 2500 miles ago). To my surprise the dipstick was bone dry. Even still, the oil light never stayed on.
I managed to get it home. When I drained the oil, of the 4 qts that it takes, only about a half of quart came out [
]. I've never seen oil spots in my driveway nor have I been burning it. Where did it all go?!?!?
I changed the filter and added 4 new quarts. The ticking stopped so I thought the problem was solved but when I took it for a test run, it came back. The noise coincides with the RPMs. In other words, while at idle its "tick tick tick tick" - but when I rev it up its "tickticktickticktick" (I should put a .wav file on here![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Since it's almost the end of the season I figure I'll work on it during the off season. I've seen PLENTY of post saying that this noise (or something similar) is caused by a faulty CCT. I'm going to order the APE manual CCT and pray that works.
Has anyone else seen this?
Thanks,
m.
I managed to get it home. When I drained the oil, of the 4 qts that it takes, only about a half of quart came out [
![Embarrassment](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif)
I changed the filter and added 4 new quarts. The ticking stopped so I thought the problem was solved but when I took it for a test run, it came back. The noise coincides with the RPMs. In other words, while at idle its "tick tick tick tick" - but when I rev it up its "tickticktickticktick" (I should put a .wav file on here
![Smile](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Since it's almost the end of the season I figure I'll work on it during the off season. I've seen PLENTY of post saying that this noise (or something similar) is caused by a faulty CCT. I'm going to order the APE manual CCT and pray that works.
Has anyone else seen this?
Thanks,
m.
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well if you engine oil light comes on that means the engine has lost oil pressure. NEVER a good thing. If the light EVER came on for me I would shut if off that second and check the oil. Even though it didn't stay on, it still didn't have pressure when the light was on. If it was for to long it could cause major engine damage. Hopefully everything is okay. The tick could be a valve or bearing that was damaged because of the low oil. It is very hard to say if there is anything wrong with the engine. Time will tell. I have a 98 and it has a tick just like you mentioned. It gets faster as the rpm's go up. It has around 14000 miles on it. It could be my cct or a valve. I put a new cct but it still does it. I might try a manual cct. This winter I will shim my valves and see if thats the problem. I really hope your bike is ok. Get in the habit of checking your oil every week or so. Best of luck
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the concern. Yeah, I've already been reprimanded like a scolded child for not checking the oil by my other riding buddies
This is my first bike, so I guess it never dawned on me to check the life blood of something that revs at 15,000 RPM!! I ordered a manual CCT today and it should be in by the end of the week. I'll install it and let y'all know how it works out.
In the words of Florida Evans... "DAMN! DAMN! DAMN!!"
![Frown](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
In the words of Florida Evans... "DAMN! DAMN! DAMN!!"
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i don't know how to address your light issue. about your oil though, have you done any modifications with the air recycling tube? on the top right of your engine there is a fat hose that reroutes air in the engine back into your carbs. check to see if you have an oil film accumulation in that area. that could be where your oil loss is coming from. oil evap loss is not good.
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
can you send me the info on where you ordered your manual CCT? i'm considering one for my current f2 due to previous experiences with my past f2. how much did you pick one up for?
rc51_sp2@hotmail.com
rc51_sp2@hotmail.com
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: RC51_SP2
can you send me the info on where you ordered your manual CCT? i'm considering one for my current f2 due to previous experiences with my past f2. how much did you pick one up for?
rc51_sp2@hotmail.com
can you send me the info on where you ordered your manual CCT? i'm considering one for my current f2 due to previous experiences with my past f2. how much did you pick one up for?
rc51_sp2@hotmail.com
Here is where I ordered it from:
http://www.cbrzone.com/sprockets.html
They do not have a way of ordering online, so I had to call - 818-842-4952. They are in California and do not open until 9:00amPST.
Hopefully mine will be in tomorrow or Friday
![Big Grin](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
...it's something worse!! [&o]
Well, the APE mCCT came in yesterday and I threw it on immediately. Unfortunately, that was NOT the problem.
Once I removed the old hydraulic one, put the new manual one on and started it up to adjust it, I heard the other sound that everyone was referring to. Definitely two different distinct sounds. Without the CCT, the bike sure does sound like a diesel truck! Once I adjusted the mCCT, the diesel sound went away but only to find out that it was just masking the original “ticking” sound. Ah well, I’m only out 50 bucks, and at least I won’t have to worry about it when the old one goes bad.
So I am back to square one. Guess I must have done some internal damage and it’s time to start stripping the motor down. This ought to keep me out of trouble during the off season.
I’m considering just replacing the entire cylinder head. May seem a bit drastic, but that way I should be able to fix any and everything that is wrong in there. I’ve priced a few used ones off the web and from the looks of it, I can probably get one for less than it would cost me to take it a shop just for them to tell me what they THINK it may be ($75/hr).
I’ll keep y’all posted.
Well, the APE mCCT came in yesterday and I threw it on immediately. Unfortunately, that was NOT the problem.
![Frown](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
So I am back to square one. Guess I must have done some internal damage and it’s time to start stripping the motor down. This ought to keep me out of trouble during the off season.
I’m considering just replacing the entire cylinder head. May seem a bit drastic, but that way I should be able to fix any and everything that is wrong in there. I’ve priced a few used ones off the web and from the looks of it, I can probably get one for less than it would cost me to take it a shop just for them to tell me what they THINK it may be ($75/hr).
I’ll keep y’all posted.
#8
#10