CBR F3 97/98: Manifold gasket question.
#1
#2
New copper manifold gaskets fitting was easy, but now i've a clearance issue:
I can't manage to screw the nut on the studs as far as before. I respect the right screwing order (Middle, Inner then Outer). I don't want to torque it too much, even if these gaskets are to be crushed (that's the way they seal).
The old gaskets were completely flat (10 years of pressure between manifold and head), the new one are toric shaped...so, is this normal?
I can't manage to screw the nut on the studs as far as before. I respect the right screwing order (Middle, Inner then Outer). I don't want to torque it too much, even if these gaskets are to be crushed (that's the way they seal).
The old gaskets were completely flat (10 years of pressure between manifold and head), the new one are toric shaped...so, is this normal?
#3
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Newcastle, N.S.W. Australia
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Yeah the shape is normal, that's why their copper (can take extreme heat & are malleable).
I found that when replacing the headers that a support underneath to take any weight bearing off the studs (like a car jack) makes this a lot easier. You tighten the bolts evenly, one turn (from when they start to tighten) on each bolt (outer/inner). If you have a torque wrench all the better (in my Haynes 14 ft-lbs or 20 Nm), this is going to stop you worrying about over doing it a snapping a bolt.
Although I have not had to do this on my CBR, on my other muti's, you tighten, warm the bike up, you tighten & so on. On just about all my bikes, the header bolts get loose eventually & the slack has to be taken up. Just remember that as long as there is no blow by the gasket, the clearances don't matter, as you will probably be tightening them again sooner than later.
I found that when replacing the headers that a support underneath to take any weight bearing off the studs (like a car jack) makes this a lot easier. You tighten the bolts evenly, one turn (from when they start to tighten) on each bolt (outer/inner). If you have a torque wrench all the better (in my Haynes 14 ft-lbs or 20 Nm), this is going to stop you worrying about over doing it a snapping a bolt.
Although I have not had to do this on my CBR, on my other muti's, you tighten, warm the bike up, you tighten & so on. On just about all my bikes, the header bolts get loose eventually & the slack has to be taken up. Just remember that as long as there is no blow by the gasket, the clearances don't matter, as you will probably be tightening them again sooner than later.
#4
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ravenphreaker
F4i - Main Forum
11
03-17-2014 10:04 AM