Cbr 600 f3 98 display change.
#11
09-12-2013, 08:53 PM
Senior Member
Ok first off I was wrong about the mph at which the air valve open and closes. I said 20mph but its really opens and closes at 12mph or 20km/h.
Here is a list of problems that can happen if you don't do the hose mod or jumper mod.
Engine hard to start.
Engine doesn't idle.
Engine stalls, rough idle at warm engine.
The air valve supplies air to the carbs bypassing the air box.
Here is a list of problems that can happen if you don't do the hose mod or jumper mod.
Engine hard to start.
Engine doesn't idle.
Engine stalls, rough idle at warm engine.
The air valve supplies air to the carbs bypassing the air box.
But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period
as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable
#12
09-12-2013, 09:01 PM
ROTM, Oct 2014
dude. your barking up the wrong tree..i am going to assume that you did this swap, and did not follow the directions, and had these results yourself..Regardless you are going off topic with this guys thread.
But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period
as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable
But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period
as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable
#14
09-13-2013, 05:41 AM
dude. your barking up the wrong tree..i am going to assume that you did this swap, and did not follow the directions, and had these results yourself..Regardless you are going off topic with this guys thread.
But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period
as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable
But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period
as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable
Also so you know cgmiller8390 is a new account only because I can't get into my old log in and can't get an admin help.
I do all my own work on the race bike and other peoples. I have a business on the side. Last year alone I rebuilt 20+ engines for people. That includes engines in modified dirt race cars and ones even in the points lead.
My bike alone has so much done I can do really anymore.
Forks: Sonic springs, Race Tech GR-2 valve and HFR Valve.
Engine: 2mm overbore, 1.5 lbs lightened and balanced crankshaft. Race cams (degreed), 4 degree advance, Factory Pro Race jet kit.
Lithium battery 1lbs
Ok I'm done now. Not going to check this thread again.
Last edited by cgmiller8390; 09-13-2013 at 05:44 AM.
#15
09-13-2013, 07:36 AM
ROTM, Oct 2014
DUDE! I'm not a dog or anyone brothers for that fact. I did the gauge swap on my race bike 3 years ago. Yes I followed the step by step directions. The directions of the pink wire is a bypass since the F4I don't have the valve control in it. So hooking it up to an available ground is a bypass. The direct link is still saved in my documents. A month or so after that was cutting weight and ended up take the valve off anyways.
Also so you know cgmiller8390 is a new account only because I can't get into my old log in and can't get an admin help.
I do all my own work on the race bike and other peoples. I have a business on the side. Last year alone I rebuilt 20+ engines for people. That includes engines in modified dirt race cars and ones even in the points lead.
My bike alone has so much done I can do really anymore.
Forks: Sonic springs, Race Tech GR-2 valve and HFR Valve.
Engine: 2mm overbore, 1.5 lbs lightened and balanced crankshaft. Race cams (degreed), 4 degree advance, Factory Pro Race jet kit.
Lithium battery 1lbs
Ok I'm done now. Not going to check this thread again.
Also so you know cgmiller8390 is a new account only because I can't get into my old log in and can't get an admin help.
I do all my own work on the race bike and other peoples. I have a business on the side. Last year alone I rebuilt 20+ engines for people. That includes engines in modified dirt race cars and ones even in the points lead.
My bike alone has so much done I can do really anymore.
Forks: Sonic springs, Race Tech GR-2 valve and HFR Valve.
Engine: 2mm overbore, 1.5 lbs lightened and balanced crankshaft. Race cams (degreed), 4 degree advance, Factory Pro Race jet kit.
Lithium battery 1lbs
Ok I'm done now. Not going to check this thread again.
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