Cbr 600 f3 98 display change.
 

Hi.

I would like to swap out my original speedo/tacho dispaly,but when i tried to disconnect it my bike did not work.it had something about the 20km wire that controls the air valve thing.

How can i bypass this cabel or are there any other way to make it work without the original dispaly???

Please help..

you have to have gauges connected for the bike to run..if you want to do a honda gauge swap..search on the forum for a f4i gauge swap..or look for compatible street fighter gauges..

Are you planning on the F4I gauge swap? If so, when you do that you add a jumper wire to kill the air valve control in the gauge connector.

and why would you suggest that he does that? unless his air solenoid valve is inop, there is no need to bypass it..

there is a how to on bypassing that air valve on here somewere i did it, it did not involve me changing any wiring when i swaped out for the F4I gauges just some re arranging of air hoses at the air cleaner so the bike would run from the air in the ram at all times, but really unless the valve is bad(mine was) there is no use in deleting it i didnt see any improvment.

The stock gauges control the air valve to open/close at 20mph. If you do the gauge swap and don't do the jumper or the hose mod, it can have trouble running under 20mph.

Racers delete the air control valve to save on weight.

If you have the service manual take a look at the electrical diagram. The air control valve relay has a wire labeled P (pink). The wire goes to the speedo part of the gauge. At 20mph it controls the power flow to the coil inside the relay to either open or close the circuit.

exactly what im saying..unless its bad,there is no reason to bypass or delete.

Ok first off I was wrong about the mph at which the air valve open and closes. I said 20mph but its really opens and closes at 12mph or 20km/h.

Here is a list of problems that can happen if you don't do the hose mod or jumper mod.

Engine hard to start.
Engine doesn't idle.
Engine stalls, rough idle at warm engine.

The air valve supplies air to the carbs bypassing the air box.

On the flip side of that if the air valve goes bad you will be starving your bike of air which can lead to alot of problems. If he is going with aftermarket gauges he will have to do one of the mentioned mods the easier one is just to get rid of the valve all together i guess. But if he is keeping the F3 gauges and the valve is in working order, dont fix what isnt broken. On the F4I gauges there is a pink wire that can be used to keep the valve open at all times. far as i know those would be the only options.leave it, bypass it or delete it all depends on what gauges he will run.

dude. your barking up the wrong tree..i am going to assume that you did this swap, and did not follow the directions, and had these results yourself..Regardless you are going off topic with this guys thread.


But in case you need to learn something. in the swap's directions, which are searchable through the "past cbr f3" models, you will see that the pink wire is to be grounded, to the existing green wire in the f3 harness. resulting in the air solenoid constantly being on the "ram air" side..if there is a properly working solenoid, then nothing further needs to be done..period

as far as your "could result" scenerios..they dont really matter..you will know without a doubt that the soenoid is bad because the bike will not go past 15 mph. it will try to buck you due to no air/air/no air/air..making the bike nonridable

i did hook that wire up on my swap will even tho the valve is no longer there. And yes as will pointed out it is in the how to on the F4I gauge swap that the wire is there and what to do with it.

Ok. Thanx for all info. I did a bypass and disconnected the air valve. The bike is good as new.

DUDE! I'm not a dog or anyone brothers for that fact. I did the gauge swap on my race bike 3 years ago. Yes I followed the step by step directions. The directions of the pink wire is a bypass since the F4I don't have the valve control in it. So hooking it up to an available ground is a bypass. The direct link is still saved in my documents. A month or so after that was cutting weight and ended up take the valve off anyways.

Also so you know cgmiller8390 is a new account only because I can't get into my old log in and can't get an admin help.

I do all my own work on the race bike and other peoples. I have a business on the side. Last year alone I rebuilt 20+ engines for people. That includes engines in modified dirt race cars and ones even in the points lead.

My bike alone has so much done I can do really anymore.

Forks: Sonic springs, Race Tech GR-2 valve and HFR Valve.

Engine: 2mm overbore, 1.5 lbs lightened and balanced crankshaft. Race cams (degreed), 4 degree advance, Factory Pro Race jet kit.

Lithium battery 1lbs

Ok I'm done now. Not going to check this thread again.

calm down man, we are all brothers here :icon_wink: