Okay I did an engine swap and cleaned the carbs. Now after taking them apart the throttle will stick at 3K and will hold for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then it will fall back to idle speed.

I checked the throttle linkage and return cable with the engine off and it all works fine.

I am thinking I either dicked something up when I was cleaning the carb or too much fuel additive is causing the bike to surge.

Also I have not changed the spark plugs yet and they are very old about 6 years but low miles. Got a new set on the way because the bike shutters and hesitates below 3k when I twist the throttle.

What could be causing this sticking of the throttle???

 

I just pulled the carb and inspected the floats. They all moved freely and sprang back without any problems. Then I sprayed some carb cleaner through the tubes that connect to the float needles.

Put it all back together and #2 carb is spitting. It did it once before but I was not sure at first. But now its spitting every few seconds with a metallic clicking noise.

Still the carb is still holding the idle at 3k.

 

Tried to make the adjustment on the carb. Turn it in all the way and then back 2 1/8 turns but still doing the same thing. I must have dicked something up.

I don't have time too keep missing with this because I am moving pretty soon. I wonder if I messed something up on the spring side because the carb keeps clicking/spitting.

 

Hi mate,
Not sure about the metallic clicking sound but maybe theirs a problem on the top half of the carbs?
Possible split in a diaphragm, maybe one has been pinched by the top cap? The slider spring/springs are not sitting correctly?
When you lift them (the floats) with your fingers, do they all fall at the same rate? Also make sure the by eyesight that the jet needle is sitting inside its needle jet properly and not rising out of the needle jets when you lift the slides.
It does sound like a float height issue, but you have checked them (not adjustable anyway) but with carbs their a funny beast at times!
The bike shutters and hesitates below 3k, the carbs balanced?

And when you swapped engines did you do a valve clearance check?

That's about all I can think off I'm afraid bud, maybe there's something their above you may of missed?

Their could be an issue of too much fuel additive depending on how much you put in, I guess. As on tick over the pump will be pumping through fresh "gas" around every 10 seconds???

Good luck,
Ant.

 

Just another thought!

The pilot jet hasnt worked its way loose on number 2? Or the main,
And the metallic clicking noise- you do have the fuel tap on reserve or on?

All the best
Ant

 

F3CBRANT

I opened up the carb and I did not see any damage to the diaphragm on #2. Also I looked at the spring and slide and made sure it was in there good. I ordered a used carb from ebay as a backup just incase I can't get this one working properly. I am moving at the end of the month and want my bike working and running.

I did not check the valve clearance. I did change the cams because my new engine had California cams. At first the bike was running fine just a little rough after cleaning the carb. But it was running. I put a lot of sea foam in it to continue to clean the carbs. Kept running gas through it also.

Then it start spitting and backfiring to the beat of a drum. Little tiny rumbles coming out of the exhaust and spitting with clicking on #2 at the carb.
When the new carb gets here I am only going to work on the jet side cleaning the jets and leave the spring side alone.

 

F3CBRANT

Or if one of the jets in #2 is still clogged???

I am going to pull the jets again and let them soak and run some wire through them. Hopefully my new sparkplugs will be here in the morning so I can rule them out.

Is there anything you suggest using to soak the jets? The last time I used sea foam and gas.

 

I suggest carb cleaner to soak the jets mate.
Put personally I would not poke wire through any orrifice in a carb, I would use compressed air if available.
I know over here (UK) you can buy cans of it if you don't have a compressor.

As for changing cams, I obviously have no clue as to the spec of Californian cams, but as you changed them I'm guessing they are of different size/shape lobes to normal. If that's the case then it would knock your valve clearances out of spec.

Also is your timing spot on? I.e when at top dead centre on number 1 cylinder the IN and EX marks are completely FLUSH with the cylinder head- see valve clearance guide on here.
Something to think about mate.

Must dash,
Good luck, I'm sure IdoDirt will pick this up and give you the answere
Ant

 

cbrf3ant

No I am going to use the wire on the holes on the jets and computer air

I will soak #2 jets in the morning.

I will change the plugs because I might have used to much seafoam and it could be the cause of spitting

I used the Clymer manual to swap out the cams so I made sure I got the timing right. I checked and double checked it before I put it back together,

Hopefully I get it all done and working right

 

Okay its running a whole lot better now. I pulled the jets in #2 and they were dirty even after taking the carb apart and cleaning them.

What I did was use too much seafoam and Stp carb additive. The extra carb cleaners freed up all the leftover gunk I missed during cleaning in the carb and it just ended up back in the jets. So I cleaned the jets again and them installed them in the carb.

Then I changed the plugs which were wet because I think the extra additive made the bike run rich. Now there are new plugs in the bike. Also I put more gas in the tank to thin out the extra additive.

Bike runs a whole lot better. No more surging, hesitation, sticking throttle, backfires, spitting, carb clicking, shutting off on its own, and acting like it does not want to start.

Now I need to find a carb sync tool so I can get the carbs synced.

cbrf3ant thanks bro for the help.