Background:

I really wanted another bike to cruise on for a few reasons. I miss riding and I wanted something that gets great fuel economy without being super lame to drive or costing $50,000+. I found a 1994 Honda VFR 750 for $1,500.00 but would have cost me another $800.00 to ship. It ran and drove but needed one fairing and to be painted.
With the wifes semi-approval I weighed my options and ultimately left it up to her. Buy a bike that needs very little for a lot or buy a bike that needs a lot for very little. She said she would rather I bought a bike that needed a lot of work, fix it up over a few months, and then we'd know all the work was completed correctly. Makes sense.

I just purchased this 1996 CBR 600 F3 as a parts bike for $450.00. It cost me $410.00 to get it to my house. It does not run, went down on both sides, however just theleft side upper fairingsuffered. It did not come with any keys, so I purchased a new round key ignition set-up and a used fuel cap with key. I also purchased Targa L & R upper fairings (got a great deal on eBay for the pair), factory stockpurple front fender, Lockhart Phillips front & rear turn signals, dark smoked double bubble windscreen (which I am not a fan of the double bubble style, I want a stock looking windscreen in dark smoke), new L & R mirrors, and a factory stock 1997-98 tail light with wire harness and mounting bracket (so I can convert the bike to the 1997-98 tail section).
It has some type of aftermarket full exhaust system on it, but the header is full of holes. The pipe is still pretty nice, though the can will need a lot of polishing. It also has Michelin Macadam (front=120/60ZR-17 80X / rear=160/60ZR-17 100X) tires on it. The front is about 50%, however the rear is like new.

Now that I have most of the parts I decided to start installing some of them and work on getting this machine running.


Issue:

I hooked up the battery, and installed the new ignition so I could use the key as intended. Turned the key on and my headlight works, blinkers all function and such. The horn makes a hideous sound, but at least I know all thatwiring is good. The cluster lights are illuminated and confirm it is reading neutral. I hit the start button and nothing happens. I pull in the clutch and hit the start button, still nothing. pull back the clutch, brake and push start, again nothing. I sit on the bike, kick the stand up, pull back the clutch, brake and push the start button. NOTHING. I decided to try it in 1st & 2nd gear just in case, you guessed it: dead.
I also tried each of the above with the OFF/RUN switch in each position just in case it was backwards or had a bad connection in it. It doesn't appear so.

The bike doesn't even try to crank over.
Is there any sensor/switch that I could be overlooking? Some type of anti-theft trick?
I doubt it, but thought I'd ask.

I am thinking maybe the starter is bad?
Even if the engine was completely locked up the starter should try to engage, correct?

The battery connections are tight.
The fuse is good.
The side stand light is illuminated when down, and not illuminated when up.

Does the kickstand have to be in the up position to start the bike?


I didn't pull the fairings off or anything yet. Just trying to see what you guys think before I get it pulled apart.
Hopefully it is something simple.

 

Check the starter, since it been down might have loosen a wire. When you turn on the bike, is the kick stand indicator light on? If not or is, check the kick stand safety switch.

Check the fuse, for the ignition, oh make sure the battery cable are on the battery tight.

Starter,
Kick Stand safety switch,
Fuse,
Battery cable.

Thoseis all I can think of right now, for a no crank situation.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! I am hoping it is just a wire off the starter or something similar that is simple.

The battery connections are tight.
The fuse is good.
The side stand light is illuminated when down, and not illuminated when up.

Does the kickstand have to be in the up position to start the bike?


***This information has been added to the original post***

 

Yes, only when the bike is in gear and the kick stand is down it will not start, even if you holding in the clutch it will not start.

Shade tree mechanic check of the kick stand switch, is on the back on the clutch lever, there it two connectors, take a paper clip and jump those two connectors. If the bike starts then there is a problem with the kick switch.

Just don't keep it like that!

If the bike still don't start, move to the starter. Get a heavy wire, like a intension cord and jump the starter, HOW you ask? Is jumpthe positive side of the starter, to the positive side of the battery, if the starter won't engage, you have a starter problem. If is does engage, follow the positive cable from the started to the battery and check all the connection within that path.

Post back if none of these suggestion works.

SGB

 

Awesome, I'll check those suggestions out right now.

I might as well get something acomplished instead of sitting on here all day.

Thanks again, keep the thoughts coming...


My father is a very talented mechanic, however I'd like to be at least semi-self sufficient.

 

My guess is that if you had a wire that wasn't connected to the starter, you would of blown the main fuse the first time you hit the starter button. Check the voltage of the battery to make sure it is good because even though your lights are all on, you won't have enough power to turn the stater motor. I've included a picture of a flow chart because it would be too much to type it all out. Good luck with this

 

Good news the bike now cranks!

I checked some stuff out and noticed when I hit the start button the cluster lights dimmed a b it so I plugged some jumper cables from my bike to my Dakota. It started cranking immediately. I guess my batteryhad enough juice, but not enough to run the starter.

After seriously cranking for a while (taking breaks to let the starter cool a bit after 30 seconds). It fired a couple times, but that was it. I removed the fuel tank and did some more checking to make sure the fuel pump is plugged in and functioning correctly. All seemed well. The fuel smelled a bit varnised which means the carburetors probably need to be completely gone through, but thats not going to be today. Since the fuel tank was off I figured I'd check the air filter and remove the top of the ram air induction box to get a better look at the carburetors. I tried cranking it a few more times and now it never fired again. I dumped some fuel into the carbs and worked the throttle a bit bit and it fired again. A little more fuel some more working the throttle and vroooom it revved for a plit second and died out. I repeated this about 5 times and each time the engine ran better/smoother. It sounds pretty mean.

Only problem is it spit some serious oil out of the pipe. I had a tarp behind the bike (thankfully) and it was covered in oil. I let it start again and watched the oil spit out. I was like damn! The engine sure sounds good and only has 14,799 miles, so hopefully it is still good.
Hopefully it was just from being laid over?
I'll get some new plugs and fresh fuel in it tomorrow and see what happens. Wish me luck.

 

Did you get a good look at what was coming out because that just might be moisture mixed with the carbon being blown out. This happens when a vehicle has been sitting for a long period of time. My car sat for about 4 years and when I got it running again, I had a tone of that crap coming out. It's not burning oil by the way. Hasn't happened to the bike... well because it doesn't really ever sit

 

It has no doubt been sitting for a couple years, however this was definately oil. I'd say about a half quarts worth. Like I said I happen to have a tarp all balled up on some tires about 3-4 feet behind the bike and it looks like someone sprayed it with a hose.

 

You might want to pull out the plugs and make sure that aren't fouled. Was the bike sitting with fuel in it the entire time?