97 F3 wont crank
#21
Test 1: battery voltage 12.53v
Test 2: Voltage with key on position 12.44 (headlight diconected)
Test 3: Voltage when trying to crank 12.44V
Test 4: with key off voltage at the solenoid's red and red/white wires 12.52V
Test 5: I get -12.22
****Test 6: volatge goes from 0.064V to 0.004V w start switch pressed. there seems to be a problem here I guess since we getting different readings.
Sorry for the late delay I couldnt really work at my friends house since they were having bbqa and family activities I ended taking the bike w a van to my house where I can spend more time and trace the problem , Thank you all
Test 2: Voltage with key on position 12.44 (headlight diconected)
Test 3: Voltage when trying to crank 12.44V
Test 4: with key off voltage at the solenoid's red and red/white wires 12.52V
Test 5: I get -12.22
****Test 6: volatge goes from 0.064V to 0.004V w start switch pressed. there seems to be a problem here I guess since we getting different readings.
Sorry for the late delay I couldnt really work at my friends house since they were having bbqa and family activities I ended taking the bike w a van to my house where I can spend more time and trace the problem , Thank you all
#22
You said starter switch is working. Are you now getting voltage to the solenoid when you push button? If so, then there's a problem with your ground. And using sharp point of a test light will not harm your wiring in any way. That's why there is a sharp point on it. Don't confuse that with dull point found on most VOM's. Testing at a connection is better, but when that's not feasible, using the point to check a wire is common practice.
Like I mentioned before, if your fuel pump uses a relay, it works off negative coil wires (blue/yellow, yellow/blue) and won't run until bike is cranking over. Solenoid needs 2 things to work...power and a ground. If you're getting power to it from starter button, then it's missing ground somewhere.
Like I mentioned before, if your fuel pump uses a relay, it works off negative coil wires (blue/yellow, yellow/blue) and won't run until bike is cranking over. Solenoid needs 2 things to work...power and a ground. If you're getting power to it from starter button, then it's missing ground somewhere.
The starter relay has 4 wires going to it 1st Green/red ( ground) which is good I tested it following the manuel I down loaded..
2nd is red/white which is + 12v , 3rd red which is +12v also, Then yellow/ red stripe that comes from the starter switch.
The yellow/ red wire i dont get power to it even when i press the start switch... I put 12v to this wire yellow/red stripe and bike turned over but didnt start. I didnt try for to long.
I also found a problem here when I tried to test Starter Relay Voltage from the manuel section 17.9
It says to shift transsmision to neutral, measure voltage between yellow/red (+) wire and ground at the starter relay switch connector.
If batter voltage appears only when starter switch is pressed with ignition switch ON, its normal.. But I get no volatage change when I press start button
#23
Finally got my hands on a diagram that I could download. Check for voltage at fuse. It's the 10A next to a 15 that isn't on the end (hopefully it's marked on fusebox cover). It feeds black wire going to starter button housing. If it has power, you must be missing a ground going to solenoid. Other than solenoid being shot, that's the only things it could be.
#24
I checked those fused they all good, and that black wire has power going to the switch.
looking at the diagram the yellow/red wire coming out the starter switch should have power when start button pressed and it dose not.
I checked the green and red wire on the starter relay/solenoid and its good ground..
I think it might be the starter switch.. because when i put power to the yellow/red wire the bike cranks
looking at the diagram the yellow/red wire coming out the starter switch should have power when start button pressed and it dose not.
I checked the green and red wire on the starter relay/solenoid and its good ground..
I think it might be the starter switch.. because when i put power to the yellow/red wire the bike cranks
#25
#26
I think your right.
Given what you tested so far, it looks to be in your started switch or wiring.
Vigorously toggle the "OFF/RUN" switch.
With the bike in N kick stand up, key on, Run switch on, clutch pulled in (Covering everything at once), press the start button (Wiggle your finger while pushing it in hard).
If it is just corroded, it may crank and if so, you may be able to take it apart and clean it.
Given what you tested so far, it looks to be in your started switch or wiring.
Vigorously toggle the "OFF/RUN" switch.
With the bike in N kick stand up, key on, Run switch on, clutch pulled in (Covering everything at once), press the start button (Wiggle your finger while pushing it in hard).
If it is just corroded, it may crank and if so, you may be able to take it apart and clean it.
Last edited by Procrastinator; 06-22-2010 at 11:38 PM.
#28
After spending 3hrs in the garage with the wiring diagram i finally fixed the bike...
1st of all I want to say thank you to Procrastinator, cbr900racer77, and others who helped me track this problem and trouble shoot it.. it was really nice of you guys...
Now i opended the starter switch and noticed that there was no power coming to the stop start switch...which feeds power to the start push botton switch... according to diagram theres suppose to be 12v when key turned to on postion to the stop start switch... traced that wire (opened up hraness) and about 2 inches away from a realy in front by headlight i think its the air vent control relay... the black wire power wire was broken... someone cut and tied this wire before i bought the bike for some reason... i hooked up the wire and BAMMM the stop start switch got 12v . I hit start button bike fired right up....
I did end up breaking the start stop switch unit.. the clip inside broke .. i will find one online some where..
Next is fork seals
1st of all I want to say thank you to Procrastinator, cbr900racer77, and others who helped me track this problem and trouble shoot it.. it was really nice of you guys...
Now i opended the starter switch and noticed that there was no power coming to the stop start switch...which feeds power to the start push botton switch... according to diagram theres suppose to be 12v when key turned to on postion to the stop start switch... traced that wire (opened up hraness) and about 2 inches away from a realy in front by headlight i think its the air vent control relay... the black wire power wire was broken... someone cut and tied this wire before i bought the bike for some reason... i hooked up the wire and BAMMM the stop start switch got 12v . I hit start button bike fired right up....
I did end up breaking the start stop switch unit.. the clip inside broke .. i will find one online some where..
Next is fork seals
#29
Cool, glad you found it! Electrical troubleshooting can be a b!tch sometimes. Usually all it takes is a good diagram, pack of smokes (if you smoke like me) and a couple of hours. Just be glad it wasn't a short...then you'd really be cussing. You'll find the fork seals are alot easier than electrical gremlins LOL.
#30
Fortunately found this post... righ now i have the exact same problem with same simptoms on my 1990 hurricane. The difference is i don´t have 12v leading to the CDI also.
Here´s is my actual post https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-tech-9/fried-ecu-122014/
Hope someone can help me too.
Here´s is my actual post https://cbrforum.com/forum/general-tech-9/fried-ecu-122014/
Hope someone can help me too.