Like I said, can't really remember the F3 particularly but have worked on a few. They should be wired just like the 900RR. If you mean the start/stop switch, it has nothing to do with engine cranking over. It just kills the 12volts running to the coils and ecu. Do you have a test light with sharp point? If so, check for voltage at starter switch (on the RR, it's black/red). You said the solenoid wasn't getting power with starter button pushed so that will tell you if it's the button or possible blown fuse. You should also check ground wire going to solenoid. If it's showing ground, that eliminates clutch switch and sidestand switch. If it's not grounded, remove small bit of insulation from wire and run jumper wire to frame. If it cranks with starter button, good chance it's clutch switch or sidestand switch.

 

I found a nice wiring diagram that I wanted to post here so it could help other when needed .. Its in pdf format any idea how to post it as attechment?

 

If you think you got problems right now, wait until you short something out!
Be careful, as you can destroy what you do not understand.

 

Procrastinator thank you for the link...

i downloaded the manuel and went to work...

1.I checked the Engine stop switch = good
2. checked starter switch = good
3. checked kickstand switch= good

now the fuel pump isnt getting any power since i dont hear it prime i also hooked up a meter to see if any power was coming and was nothing..

I hooked up 12v to the pump and it work at same time i jumped the starter relay and cranked to see if it would start ...But it didnt soo probably no spart either..

Now im starting to think it might be the ECU?

Im going to take it to the shop on monday if I cant figure it out

 

I can walk you through the tests to get right to the problem.
Please don't poke or cut any wires. (Just makes more problems)
Please get a volt meter and tell me when you are ready.

 

Thanks for taking your time to help out

I didnt cut or poke any wires

I got a volt meter ready..

 

Sorry for the slow response.
I was out doing the whole Father's Day thing.

I am going to go through the basic test, using my bike as a guinea pig.

Please do the same test in the same order and write down each result.

TEST 1: What is your battery voltage? (Mine is 12.89V)

TEST 2: What is your battery voltage with the key on? (Mine is 12.23V)

TEST 3: What is your battery voltage when you try and crank the engine? (Mine is over 12V)

TEST4: With the key off, what is the voltage at the solenoid's red and red/white wires. Probe the connector, don't poke any wires! (Mine is 12.89 at both)

TEST 5: Put the bike in N, turn on key, put your red volt meter probe to the yellow solenoid wire terminal and put your black volt meter probe to the positive (Red) side of battery and note the voltage. (Mine is -11.9V).

Test 6: Put your bike in 1st gear and the key on, put your red volt meter probe to the green solenoid wire terminal and put your black volt meter probe to the negative (Black) side of battery. With the motor run switch ON, push the starter button in and note the voltage. (Mine is -11.9V).

PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS SOON,as I must put my bike back together once we figure this out.

 

Procrastinator sorry for responding so late I ended up going to grab dinner with family for fathers day also...

The bike is over my friends house and Im unable to test it untill tomorrow.

Sorry for keeping you from putting your bike back together but I will test these steps tomorrow after 3pm when I get out of work. Thank you again

 

OK, no prob.
Let me know your results and we will have a firm path to the problem.

 

You said starter switch is working. Are you now getting voltage to the solenoid when you push button? If so, then there's a problem with your ground. And using sharp point of a test light will not harm your wiring in any way. That's why there is a sharp point on it. Don't confuse that with dull point found on most VOM's. Testing at a connection is better, but when that's not feasible, using the point to check a wire is common practice.
Like I mentioned before, if your fuel pump uses a relay, it works off negative coil wires (blue/yellow, yellow/blue) and won't run until bike is cranking over. Solenoid needs 2 things to work...power and a ground. If you're getting power to it from starter button, then it's missing ground somewhere.