I thinking of buying my first bike... just like my first car, it will be a bit of a project (to say the least).

Assuming I'm not mistaken, I'll be able to buy an F2 with a bad 2nd gear and no body work or seat (and assumbly everything else) for $200 (or there abouts)... some assembly required.

It's part first bike, part long-term project/play thing (like an expensive, 400-pound model kit)... so I don't care if it takes a few months to put together. But is there anything I need to know about putting an F2 together that was originally broken down for parts?

If I run it naked, how much of a problem will I have finding the parts I need to get it into a street legal (or track ready?) state?

I downloaded a service manual already, and I still can't figure out how the transmission connects to the crankshaft. I assume it's a chain of some sort, but it's not mentioned or shown in any diagrams. The manual also doesn't seem to show you how to break/reattach the chain, or what size chain to use (530, 108 link?).

 

And here I figured someone would tell me it was a bad idea...

ah well.

 

If you have the time and the patience to do it right id say do it. Im still in the midst of finishing my f2 but she needed a fair bit, fork rebuild, brake job, new tires, new chain, carbs thouroughly cleaned. Im not finished yet but did fire it up the other night after years of sitting in someone's garage.

As far as the tranny is concerned its connect to the crankshaft through the primary gear. your clutch is anchored to that gear and then the clutch is disengaged it trasfers power into you mainshaft (input shaft of your transmission). its hard to explain without having an example but i hope that makes some sense.

if you dont plan or reusing the old chain just cut it off with and abrasive disc, if you do plan on reusing find the master link. it will either be of a clip kind or it'll have its pinns mushroomed. Just grind the heads off of them and use a proper chain breaking tool to push the pin out.

tell us how it goes.

 

So, some motorcycle chains have a master link that is easily removable without an abrasive tool (or chain breaker?), like a bicycle chain, where as some use rivets?

Or do they all have a master link, and some people just don't bother to use them? Or do they just not use them when extending or shortening the chain? (or when they're just going to through it away and don't feel like finding the master?)

Also, will the stock side fairings hold 5l of liquid? Or do you need a one-peice lower or a belly pan?

And can you put a belly pan on a bike that's being run naked?

I assume I should get some frame sliders if I'm going to run it naked... if only to keep it from scratching it up, or from removing any paint and letting it rust. And will the F2 take swingarm spools? Or would I be better off with a non-spooled stand? (for track applications)


BTW, a clutch connects the drive train when it's engaged... not disengaged.

But I can't find any mention of a gear that connects the transmission to the crankshaft... the diagrams show a noticable gap between the crankshaft and the main shaft.


And I wouldn't say I have patience so much as I already have a daily driver and this would just be a toy until I get it running... since I can't afford to insure it for street riding anyway.

I've never worked on a bike... but I'm fairly mechanically inclined (and I've seen a CBR 600 engined pulled apart at least once before). It took me 5 months to rebuild my car's engine and get it running... but only because I only got to work on it for a weekend every month or so.

 

The OEM replacement/recommended is a ORing Rivit Chain.

Generally speaking if the change has a masterlink chances are it is not an ORing model and will not require a breaker tool or a grind off. (unless horribly rusted)

I personally grind off rivited chains to save my tips on my chain kit for adjusting length. (plus I like to pull out my air bit grinder) I also prefer ORing chains, though I have heard some say the old style are faster. Well, don't get that other then a regular chain weighs less.

If you plan to trackday or race this bike, go with a rivit chain. Wouldn't want the masterlink breaking under all that torque. They stretch quicker too.

The stock fairings are open. No belly pan or liquid capacity. Not sure how to get a belly pan on. Something I need to figure out, also.

Frame sliders will require side panel mods. Of course if you are running it naked then that is not a problem. The swingarm is not set to accept spools. I have a PitBull non spool rear stand for mine. Works great.

 

Oh, I see, the difference is that on a motorcycle chain, you squish the head of the post so the part that slips on won't come off...

So it's a one-time use item? Or can you just buy new posts (or whatever they're called).

Also, is there are reason you can't just drill and tap holes in the swingarm for spools (if only for crash protection?), or is it just not worth the effort?

 

You can buy the rivit links I believe. I suppose you could drill the rivits with the right size bit. Always more then one way to break a chain.

I thought about drilling the swingarm to mount spools but wasn't sure if it would effect the structural integrity or not. Gee, I haven't even committed to frame sliders because of cutting the side panels.

 

Hmm, it seems there is one brand that sells links that you bend with pliers to secure. Are these as suitable for racing as rivet types?

You can also avoid using any special tools, and they claim they have rivet-like performance.

Also, I looked at the diagrams again and now I can see that the clutch goes on the main shaft, with the big gear on the crankshaft sort of poking through a slot, and that the oil pump is connected to the main shaft with a chain (?!?!??! Does it only pump when the clutch is engaged? or are there seperate pumps for the engine and the transmission?), and that the gearshift linkage goes right next to the clutch...

 

What brand is that? I'd like to check it.
Personally, I wouldn't compromise on a chain for track use. There is something comforting about the secure fit of the rivit.

Sorry I haven't committed on the transmission. I haven't had any hands on experience with the F2's trany yet. All I have worked on trany wise are a few of our shaft driven bikes. With any luch luck I won't have to for quite sometime. The bike only has 3100 miles on it. No, I am not missing a zero.

 

http://www.ekchain.com/access.htm

You need pliers and an 8mm wrench...