Thanks again!

Good thinking. I do get current, albeit a weak one, which should mean, in my humble opinion, that I actually "fixed" the problem with a completely dead machine by replacing the R/R and starter switch. And, help me with my thinking here, since I now get juice by turning the ignition key it should be a fair assumption that the ignition key system isn't fried, right?

First I thought that I had put the three yellow wires in the top row of the plug into the R/R in the wrong order but having looked at the wiring diagram I could exclude that since they all seem to be interchangable.

No, the more I think about it (like all the time by now) the more I lean towards the idea that it has something to do with some kind of connector issues or faulty ground.

 

I agree, if you get power when turning the key the switch should be OK.
The three yellow wire are interchangeable on the r/r, so you can rest easy there.

Like you, I would be leaning towards a connection issue, or faulty ground. Grounds are fickle things anywau, as are connectors. If it was me, I'd start with anything I touched, unplugged, or moved. Then move on to the other ones.

 

Gtcole, I'll try that method. I did touch a LOT of stuff . Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how things go...

 

No worries. Just trying to help where I can. Even if its just giving an outside POV. Good luck

 

Okay, now I am starting to despair. I went to the garage and got to work. First time I turned the key I got nothing. Not even a flickering light. I charged the battery that seemed drained, but then again, it only took like 30 minutes to charge it so I suspect it wasn't really the problem. Then I removed everything I had installed (new R/R with new plastic plug and starter relay) and reinstalled it. I soldered a pin in the plug that apparently was a bit loose. I discovered that the green wire that goes to the frame (ground) just below the R/R was a bit loose so I tightened that one. I cleaned all the surfaces of all the contacts I touched. Checked all fuses. Connected the battery. Turned the key. All I got was a second of nothing, then the lights in the panel came on (oil, neutral and stand) and the wailing sound started. It seems to be coming from the front of the motorcycle. I didn't have time to remove all fairings and look at it, but any ideas would be greatly appreciated right now. If I can't solve this soon I will sell the damn thing as junk parts and ride the KTM, which is a project in itself, trying to get that one street legal in Sweden, full time.

Thanks guys.

EDIT: I have a spare ignition coil that I will install tomorrow but could that really be it? A faulty ignition coil?

My spare one (but it came without the markings): http://images.wemoto.com/full/IGNITI...L/10009726.jpg

 

Ok, lets take it from the top.... again lol. The wailing sound, only thing I can think is, as dumb as it sounds, disconnect the horn. If the wailing goes away then that was the issue. Could be a faulty horn or horn switch. Thats the only thing I can think of or see looking at the front of my bike that should make any kinda noise.
Now, you have a fully charged battery, that handles a load correct? If so, chase the hot wire back to the starter relay and 30 amp fuse. power to that point, then probe the back side of the connector there. That's where the power goes on its way to the ignition switch. If you have already done all this, I apologize. Just thinking out loud. The thing getting me is that it seems you are having problems with power at the ignition switch. I know you can unplug the switch, use some jumper wires to simulate you turning the key to the on position. If the dash lights up immediately, try to start the bike. if it starts, new ignition switch would be the problem. If not, and you still have the delay, then the problem is before the switch, i.e. the "new" starter relay.

I know it sounds weird, but new doesnt mean good, at least in my experience. Hope I've made sense and gave you new options.

 

Sure did, my friend. Simulating the ignition key was a great idea. And I will try the rest of them as well. Thanks again for all the input. It is really helping me. Without it I world be clueless.

 

Its no problem at all. I had to go through mine too and without the help I received here I would have been lost too. Hopefully we can isolate and replicate so we can get ya riding again.

 

Did some work on the bike today... Mainly tearing her up though...



In my Haynes manual it is stated that the ignition (the key part) can be removed with two Torx, but I am not really sure that is correct, because it is either attached with two giant, and in my case completely round, bolts or with THREE torx. Doesn't say the size of the torx but my T8 was too big (!)...

If you look at this picture, would you agree with me that the only torx present are the three on the insert for the key ignition?

 

Ok, that's just full-on bizarro! Yes, the manual is right, there should be two torx bolts that mount the switch to the top triple clamp, and I do believe they are size 8.

Where the torx screws are supposed to be, are where my red circles are here, one circling the location you cannot see in the pic.



So, yeah, those are supposed to be torx, but I've really zoomed in on that pic, and for the life of me, I cannot make out what is in the place of them in your pic!! Am I just crazy, or do those seem to just have rounded edges - no hex shape or anything?!?

The only thing I can think of, is that those are some sort of little caps, inserted into the bolt head, to deter people from attempting to remove them, like on some F2s carb mixture screw heads, but from the pic, it doesn't look like the head is deep enough... darn it Migge, your bike is making my head hurt again!!!