So I was considering replacing the spark plug wires (as well as spark plugs) on my 94 F2, so I started looking around and have found limited options for what *might* work. So the question is, do spark plug wires come made specifically for each application?

i was also wondering what spark plugs people are using. I see the recommended plugs according to the Clymer manual are the NGK CR9EH9 which are $6/ea at the autozone by my house.

 

I would go with original factory plug wires. They are the right lengths, have the proper caps and connectors. You could probably replace the wire and re-use the caps and connectors. Are your wires damaged or is the rubber cracking? About $150. Not cheap.

 

Hmm well I haven't fully inspected them, but on the #2 wire I do feel a 'knot' under the rubber outside, and the rubber at the very end of the boot on my #4 is a little torn. I was thinking replacing them couldn't hurt, if replacements were readily available. Ah well. Thanks for the reply gpfan1.

Do you have any reccomendations for spark plugs, other than the aforementioned NGK's?

 

I've always stuck with the NGK's. I have the usually mods, jet kit, pipe, filter, ign advance, slip on. Plugs never let me down.

 

Cool cool I just bought a set of the NGK's. I wanna get the bike 'running' before I do a jet kit It has a vance & Hines exhaust, was on there when I bought her, and am sticking with oem style filter. The ign advance: Is that the sprocket like thing I've seen a few places( has teeth on one side, then opening in center). And what exactly does it do? I've heard the timing is fixed on these bikes, does it allow you to adjust it?

 

We use NGK's on the race car. We have to buy/make them hotter for our application though

 

Yep - that's the one - called the pulse rotor - right hand side of the engine case. there is a hall-effect sensor inside that cover that "reads" the difference between the teeth and the open space. the advanced rotor has different positioning and spacing to make the signal the ignition senor "sees", different.

Advancing the timing is not something I'm super familiar with beyond small changes here and there, but I'll let wikipedia explain it. I just know that my bike has one, and on coast down from a open-throttle pull, it pops like crazy, cause I think the motor is running a little lean off-throttle. Just like my really high-strung 2 stroke RC airplanes used to do at times. I'm sure I could probably benefit from a full rejetting and carb sync. Maybe this winter.

from wikipedia:

"Timing advance" refers to the number of degrees before top dead center (BTDC) that the spark will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber during the compression stroke. Retarded timing can be defined as; changing the timing so that fuel ignition happens later than the manufacturer's specified time. If the ignition timing, specified by the manufacturer, was to be set at 12 degrees BTDC and it was adjusted to a number lower than 12 degrees BTDC, it would be retarded. In a classic ignition system with breaker points, the basic timing can be set statically using a test light or dynamically using a timing light.

Timing advance is required because it takes time to burn the air-fuel mixture. Igniting the mixture before the piston reaches TDC will allow the mixture to fully burn soon after the piston reaches TDC. If the air-fuel mixture is ignited at the correct time, maximum pressure in the cylinder will occur sometime after the piston reaches TDC allowing the ignited mixture to push the piston down the cylinder with the greatest force. Ideally, the time at which the mixture should be fully burnt is about 20 degrees ATDC. This will utilize the engine's power producing potential. If the ignition spark occurs at a position that is too advanced relative to piston position, the rapidly expanding air-fuel mixture can actually push against the piston still moving up, causing pre-ignition and possible engine damage. If the spark occurs too retarded relative to the piston position, maximum cylinder pressure will occur after the piston is already traveling too far down the cylinder. This results in lost power, high emissions, and unburned fuel.

The ignition timing will need to become increasingly advanced (relative to TDC) as the engine speed increases so that the air-fuel mixture has the correct amount of time to fully burn. As the engine speed increases, the time available to burn the mixture decreases but the burning itself proceeds at the same speed, it needs to be started increasingly earlier to complete in time. Poor volumetric efficiency at lower engine speeds also requires increased advancement of ignition timing. The correct timing advance for a given engine speed will allow for maximum cylinder pressure to be achieved at the correct crankshaft angular position. When setting the timing for an automobile engine, the factory timing setting can usually be found on a sticker in the engine bay.

The ignition timing is also dependent on the load of the engine with more load (larger throttle opening) requiring less advance (the mixture burns faster). Also it is dependent on the temperature of the engine with lower temperature allowing for more advance. The speed with which the mixture burns depends also on the octane rating of the fuel and on the air-fuel ratio.

 

cool thanks for the info Adrenalnjunky. I suppose I should keep that in mind for down the road, perhaps next summer...

So I put the last new spark plug in today (it started hailing while I was working on it yesterday) and she fired right up. The old sparkplugs were autolite. I didn't even have to use my external tank! I guess cleaning out the old petcock did some good.

So hopefully tomorrow or sunday entails a carb sync with a Motion Pro. I've never done a carb sync before and this is a brand new sync tool so this should be interesting. and just fyi, it's the non-mercury type. I plan on taking bunches of pictures of both the cal of the tool and the sync itself, so I'll hopefully get to post that up in case anyone is interested. I just wish I had a garage. It's f**king freezing out!