rusted manifold bolts
#1
rusted manifold bolts
Hey people
I've just brought a 1991 f2 one of the problem with it is that two of the downpipe have snaped off now i'm trying to remove the other two so i can replace the lot with a stainless steel set.
But ive run in to a problem all the bolts are rusted solided i was hoping for some advice on the best way to remove them so i can get it back on the road
thanks
douglas_1987
I've just brought a 1991 f2 one of the problem with it is that two of the downpipe have snaped off now i'm trying to remove the other two so i can replace the lot with a stainless steel set.
But ive run in to a problem all the bolts are rusted solided i was hoping for some advice on the best way to remove them so i can get it back on the road
thanks
douglas_1987
#3
are you talking about the mounting studs and bolts holding the exhaust header to the engine?
Keep cranking on them and you'll likely unscrew the stud from the block. When I took my headers off to blast and repaint, it was about half and half that nuts came off studs, or studs came out of the block.
Keep cranking on them and you'll likely unscrew the stud from the block. When I took my headers off to blast and repaint, it was about half and half that nuts came off studs, or studs came out of the block.
#6
#9
Doug,
I'm glad you managed to get them out without breaking them.
I had two snap off in the block the first time I removed my headers. Total pain in the *** when that happens.
It took me a whole day to grind the buggers out and a heap of cobalt drill bits but I got there in the end and didn't have to helicoil.
When you reassemble, for gods sake make sure you use a torque wrench and tighten to the manual specs. You'd be surprised how little torque is actually required. Needless to say, you're going to fit new seals?
I would also highly recommend the use of an anti seize grease on the threads. Something like this...
Anti-seize spray
Effective up to 1200ēC so ideal for exhaust applications.
Just my 2p worth, but it's made taking the pipes off subsequently a piece of ****.
I'm glad you managed to get them out without breaking them.
I had two snap off in the block the first time I removed my headers. Total pain in the *** when that happens.
It took me a whole day to grind the buggers out and a heap of cobalt drill bits but I got there in the end and didn't have to helicoil.
When you reassemble, for gods sake make sure you use a torque wrench and tighten to the manual specs. You'd be surprised how little torque is actually required. Needless to say, you're going to fit new seals?
I would also highly recommend the use of an anti seize grease on the threads. Something like this...
Anti-seize spray
Effective up to 1200ēC so ideal for exhaust applications.
Just my 2p worth, but it's made taking the pipes off subsequently a piece of ****.
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