Hey guys, sorry for an extremely long post.

PROBLEM 1!

So after reading previous posts and suggestions given to me here, I went and changed my spark plugs on my F2. It still did not start up right after I changed them. It sputtered a few times starting. When I gave up and cursed the machine, I tried one more time and the bike turned on! However, the problem is the popping noise coming out of the exhaust. Blue flame comes out from time to time. I also tried to ride it and it would run ok, but again the popping noise makes it seems like I'm committing a drive-by.

Anyways, I have uploaded two videos and I was wondering if anyone can give me advice about the engine, or sparks, or whatever to help remedy this situation?

CBR F2 Exhaust popping and blue flames shooting out

CBR F2 Engine Rev acting weird




PROBLEM 2!

Another question that I have is the CBR F2 wiring. I searched the forum and someone directed me to the RC-51 diagram. I tried to understand this but I'm just not understanding it. I have two new turn signals for the front. Each has 3 wirings to the sides. The aftermarket blinkers that I have only have the red and black wires.

I want to know if anyone can tell me how to wire the red + black wire properly.

I assume the wires are like this:

Green - ground
Blue - right
Blue/White = ?
Orange - left
Orange/white = ?
Brown - tail
Green/yellow - brake

 

"don't put your hand there, there's fire coming out!"

Somebody wasn't paying attention.

To me, the high idle and flamethrower tells me you're running rich (possibly over-jetted, or mixture screw adjustment is way out)

What kind of work have you done to the carbs, if any?

As for the stumbling idle, it could be linked to the rich running condition, possibly dirty carbs, or out of sync.


The CBR has 3 wires for the signals: Ground, Power, and ACC.

The third wire is for running lights on dual filament bulbs, your new signals will not illuminate until you engage the turn signal switch, where the stock ones are on all the time and blink brighter when engaged.

The new signals will be wired: Black = Ground, Red = Power.

To determine which of the blue or blue/white, and orange or orange/white will be wired to RED you will need a multimeter and check for which one has power only when the turn signal switch is engaged. That wire will be wired to RED, and you can tape off the other wire.

Explaining wiring is difficult, I hope this helps.

 

Did it run OK before you changed your spark plugs? You may have reversed 2 wires. I am not sure how the timing works because I never tried switching my wires around on purpose but maybe your spark is now igniting the fuel air charge on the exhaust stroke...

Hershey, I was taught that heat in general is lean (not sure about the flames part). A rich mixture would make the bike run real wet, even spit fuel out of the exhaust, but its too cold to ignite anything. That's why bikes pop when they are lean, the air is so hot that it is re-igniting what is in the exhaust.

Not sure how right I am, just going by what others showed me over the years.

 

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHAHA!!!!!!!

That just made my day!

 

Dissevered - The bike was previously NOT starting up at all. I had put it away for the weekend and it never restarted since then. Prior to it not starting, the bike had no problems except that the CHOKE lever broke off and I had rode the bike with the choke open the whole time. ---> Which led me to believe that the spark plugs needed to be changed. The first video was the FIRST time in 2 weeks the bike started up for me. And all i did was change the plugs and got it started after the 20th try. I am also going to check on the coils. When i changed the spark plugs, I pulled all four out at the same time and forgot which red coil goes into what hole.

Hershey -- There has been no work done on the carbs. I saw the sticky on here for cleaning the carbs, but by looking at the pictures, I'm terrified of trying it. (Hope someone will put a video up on Youtube before I try it.)

I got the bike June and I just got the plates and registration for the bike. Now I'm trying to figure out if its legal in NJ to ride the bike over to DMV so they can inspect it. (after of course I fix the turn signals and find a chain guard)

 

Hershey, I was doing a little reading and too rich can cause flames(didn't know this), but it is not as common because as I mentioned, rich is colder. Lean is more often the culprit because (same as rich) you have unburnt fuel due to a misfire but that unburnt fuel is easily ignited due to the much higher heat.

Anyway...

A good carb cleaning can fix a lot of problems. It's really not that bad of a job but if you really feel you can't do it, maybe a shop will do it fairly cheap if you pull them off the bike. If they won't, or you feel it is too expensive, I would be glad to help, but shipping carbs may be a little pricey.

 

Running with the bike choked will cause it to be very rich, I'm surprised it ran like that, check and make sure that the choke is fully released at the carbs and isn't jarred open from the choke lever breaking.

 

Well, when the bike refused to start for the past two weeks, I just caved and bought a whole left assembly on ebay...now I have a new lever on the bike (which is shown in the YouTube video) and that's what I'm adjusting. I'm also trying to adjust the idle screw under the tank, but I know I shouldn't touch it until I can get the bike to run with the choke off......

However, if you see in the video....when I do try to shut the choke off completely, you can hear the engine start to idle slower....and eventually the bike just shuts off.

ALSO, i just took a look at the spark plug coils...I put the wrong ones in the holes...but now I fixed that mistake. I haven't started the bike yet, but I'll post up another video of the bike.

As for the wiring of the turn signals... I connected them and when the key is turn to ON, both the left and the right turn signals turn on and stay lit up. When I press left or right, the light just turns off and it doesn't blink. Any ideas on why that would be? I tried to connect both of the same colored wire (blue+Blue/white) to the positive....but it doesn't do anything. The green all throughout the bike is the ground. So i know it's not that. Any ideas to try out?

 

You used the wrong turn signal wires... you said above that there were three for each signal... switch the non ground wires (tape off the ones that are always on). (see hershey's post)

You SHOULD adjust the idle screw... turn it in/up so that when the choke is off the bike idles at 1500rpm.

 

I had a good feeling the plugs were in the wrong place, it had the sound of running on 2 cylinders.

There is nothing wrong with adjusting your idle... all it is is a throttle plate screw. It is the exact same thing as rolling your throttle on in the smallest possible increments. Having the choke stuck may have forced you or someone else to close the idle when now if the choke is off, the idle needs to be higher.

This is still not a fix if there is a problem with your carbs and they need cleaned or tuned. It will just hide the problem. Your bike should idle at 1200rpms nicely and rev up smoothly when it is at normal operating temp.