ok the machine shop wont be able to help, spark eroding is the only option and there is nowhere near here and it is very expensive.
i of course have another cylinder head but its on the F2 engine, I assume i cant swap them over ?.

 

Can you not drill and tap into the actual bolt? What size is the bolt that snapped? If you could drill out even a very small hole into thebolt and reverse thread and screw another bolt into it to try to get it free....after letting it soak in some PB blaster or something...possibly with a little heat...(very touchy here being hte head and all)...either way that is rough bud...you do want to try to get that outta there..sorry about the ****ty luck bud....maybe tack a little nut onto it for leverage??

-Poss

 

sadly the snapped off bolt is now half way down the threads and it cant be drilled out any further because the HSS bit that snapped off is blocking any progress.
it might be possible that a helicoil could be put in half way as the snapped off bolt is half drilled out. I could then cut down one of the valve cover bolts and screw into the helicoil. it would only have half the threads but they are long bolts and that should be enough to tighten down.

 

I used to have issues with my kawasaki zxr 400 radiator prior to getting it stolen but i took it apart several times became a rad expert, one thing you could do is check that the pipe that goes from the coolant tank into the rad is not blocked to make sure the water passes freely between the rad and coolant tank

 

cool thanks, i put a hose pipe on the end of all the hoses and they were all fine.

thanks anyway.

 

Yeah, the torque spec on those puppies is only 7 ft. lbs. as it is, which is barely hand-tight with a T-handle, so you're probably right in that it might work just fine... much cheaper to try, anyway, so why not?

I dread when small bolts like that snap, because the shaft has such a small OD to begin with, there's not much to bite into, when using extractors... and it's probably in there pretty darn snug, because the reason it probably snapped in the first place, is that someone failed to torque it correctly, and just "gorilla'ed" it in there, weakening the bolt with too much force!

 

tell me about it, that thing had been over tightened and was ready to sheer without too much force.

I am not sure what the minimum helicoil depth is having only found out about them thanks to this i have no experience. I think its an M8 bolt and i probably have half of the original depth so i guess around 4-5mm to play with, is that enough to try ?.
i can get some more exact measurements tomorrrow but this may be best left to the machine shop. hopefully they can do it with the head attached.

 

because i could end up drilling a really big hole in the head and make this whole thing worse, clearly i am a mechanical idiot

 

Not an idiot. Things just need to move slowly doing this kind of work. Impatience (not saying you are) can most definitely be a killer here. Systematically attack the processes. It seems you have had a tough time. If you have the ability to give it to a shop I would do so. They have the more precise machinery required for such a daunting task. Besides, like you said, you could end up setting yourself up for a really bad day. 4-5 mil is not very much. Since its such a low value, I am thinking that may suffice. But again, so far as the type of bolt. I am pretty sure a value is a value, there are all kinds of lengths of bolts that could have the same value. Get the depth of the actual hole and see what you are exactly working with. If it were me Id want to be a bit more than half at the least, but there is a reason its made the length it is for sure. Hard call here, but then again, not really Imho. Cheers.

-Poss

 

well i have found a local engineering paradise run by a classic bike enthusiast who makes valves for old british machines. he can spark erode the remains of the bolt and time cert it...... hooray.

The only down side is he needed the head removed so i cracked the head off the new engine to find water inside !. i need to confess that i did hose the new engine down and whilst it wasn't a pressure washer it was high power. All the ports were blocked with paper and bags but i am saying this in case i have been stupid enough to squirt water into the cylinders. However, even if i put the hose pipe onto the outlets then surely only two of the valves would be open so if this was my fault i should only find water in two cylinders ?.

The water was a rusty colour and the coolant was a nice clean green, the oil was fine with no milky residue. you can see where i am going with this !!

I have never removed a head so is this normal and is my very simple thinking correct that if the head had blown then surely the moisture in the cylinder would be coolant coloured.

here are the pics so judge away